I've only been to the track once and ran one time many moons ago. Just looking for some good tips.

Good burn-out. How do you do it a manual car? Just pop the clutch and run it until it smokes?

When do you launch? On the last yellow or as soon as you see green?

How do you keep from spinning wheels when you take off?


Stupid question: Like I said, I've only raced once. At the end of the track there were two white "finish" lines space about 1 or 2 car lengths from each other. I wasn't sure which one was the actual finish line. Which is it?

I race a slower automatic so someone else could better answer most of your questions http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif but as for the last one, the 2nd line is the actual finish line, the one before it is 66' back and it's the beams that read your mph.

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Chris Rose
1981 Camaro Berlinetta w/ T-Tops
355ci 2 barrel carb
Best 1/4 mile ET - 14.290 @ 95.69mph
Best 1/8 mile ET - 9.172 @ 76.49mph
http://www.geocities.com/camaro81rk (http://www.geocities.com/baja/outback/5091/camaro.htm)

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by docnascar:
I've only been to the track once and ran one time many moons ago. Just looking for some good tips.

Good burn-out. How do you do it a manual car? Just pop the clutch and run it until it smokes?

Well either install a line loc or be quick with your feet. Bring the RPm up in Second gear, pop the clutch and quickly move to the brake to keep it from rolling.

When do you launch? On the last yellow or as soon as you see green?

This really depends on a few other factors but start by going when the last yellow first starts to light up. If you don't go red your not trying hard enough. Most people starting out do not have a problem with redlights.

How do you keep from spinning wheels when you take off?

This is where you must be careful, bring the RPMS up to around 3k on the first launch. If it spins, lower the rpm on the next launch if it bogs, raise the rpm. If it just comes out of the hole nicely do the same over and over again.


Stupid question: Like I said, I've only raced once. At the end of the track there were two white "finish" lines space about 1 or 2 car lengths from each other. I wasn't sure which one was the actual finish line. Which is it?

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Arron Spitzer
Sales Rep.
Musclecar Technologies LLC (http://www.musclecartechnologies.com)
Honest Answers.........LOW PRICES!

http://www.staginglight.com/guide/
Be sure and check out 'reaction time clinic' and 'top end tactics' and by ALL MEANS, with street tires stay the hell out of the water!

Marv is right about the water and you have to be very careful. They don't pay the crew at the track enough to make them pay attention and it seems like 80% of the time they are spaying water all over the place where you can't get around it. I can just see my posi cringing when only one wheel goes through the water! Lucky for the posi I blew up my trans and will be taking it easy and no trip to the track for a while!

don't have a manual but
1)floor it when the last yellow comes on don't deep stage you want both stage lights on
2)you have to feather the gas pedal to keep from spinning on launch
3) there really is no exact answer to your questions it's just something you have to figure out at the track. Get there as early as possible so you can take lots of practice runs I went to four test and tunes before I finally felt I knew what I was doing.

GOOD LUCK

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It aint trash talkin when you can prove it.

Thanks for the tips all. They will be well noted.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by docnascar:
Thanks for the tips all. They will be well noted.</font>

I'M HEADED THIS WEEKEND! http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif All the help was great.

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1974 Z28 2nd owner
almost finished

this how i did it with my 4 speed
stage after burn out light the 1st yellow hit the line lock again and preload the clutch a little bit while you bring the revvs up to around 2500-3000 jerk the clutch just enough to get the second top yellow lit...THEN when the third yellow comes on LET GO THE linelock ,the clutch and nail it man..... http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif
it helps with slicks....
Oh let me tell ya dont expect your clutch to last forever ....
________
Toyota usa automobile museum (http://www.toyota-wiki.com/wiki/Toyota_USA_Automobile_Museum)

Marv- those are great articles and I would strongly reccomend ANYBODY to read them. I knew most of that info, but he helped it fit together a lot better-very helpful. thanks.

Once upon a time (in a galaxy far far away) I wasn't so swamped with work and had time to sit down and write 'long' detailed replies. One of those was a thought on getting the first timer ready for his first ever pass down the 1/4 mile. I thought I had archived it but all those posts Wayne keeps making must have bumped it &lt;grin&gt;. Anyways I have a copy of the text saved so........ Looks like a fitting place to re-insert it. It's more geared towards the auto trans car but is more general thoughts anyways.

" First time to the track

Getting the car ready...
First, empty the car of all the un-necessary items you have been storing in the trunk. Added weight is your enemy. You will probably only burn 2 or 3 gallons of fuel at the track. Unless you feel you need the extra balast of a full tank of fuel (for traction or the trip back home) try to arrive with less than a 1/2 tank of gas. Check all the vitals (oil, trans fluid, brake fluid, battery electrolite level, radiator,, everything) and bring them to the proper level.

Get to the track early. Give the car plenty time to cool off. Underhood temps can make a HUGE difference in ET, you don't want to abuse you motor when stone cold,, but you don't want the residual heat from it just coming off the express way either. I assume you have gone over all the safety items and will get past tech, if not you might want to review this page as it has some of the more common tech items listed sears point raceway tech (http://www.searspoint.com/pages/hidden/weddragsrules.html)

Ok, assuming you got through tech...

First things first. Go up into the stands and familarize your self with the track, you want to get a perspective of every interval from the waterbox through the turnout roads. Pay close attention to where the starting line is (staging beams) and the finish line. Don't laugh,, I've watched a number of inexperienced racers that didn't know when to let off and slow down. You might ask tech if the scales are open. This is a perfect opprotunity to find pout what the car weighs with driver and fuel on board,,, ready to race.

Time to get into the staging lanes...

Always listen to the announcer, they will give any special instructions for that particular track / event and tell you which lane has right of way at the top end of the track. More on that later.

The announcer will say which lanes are for street tires, for slicks, for pro tree, full tree, test and tune of the pro cars, etc.,, pay attention and ask questions if you need to. You will find most everyone at the track is very helpfull if you just ask. It's when you don't ask and do something dumb that you get into trouble.

Don't play monkey see monkey do and drop the air pressure in your rear tires to a rediculous psi. Most street tires will cup in the center at low psi and give less traction than when normally inflated. Besides, too low of a psi will very likely get you in trouble with control. Obviously Drag radials and DOT 'cheater' slicks are designed for a low psi, but NOT your street tires. Your front tires should be checked and brought to proper inflation,, it will help reaction times if you bring them up a few psi higher than normal. But don't go krazy and don't exceed the MAX inflation listed on the tire.

In the staging lanes try to keep the motor off as much as possible. You don't want to build unnecessary underhood heat. When you are the 2nd or 3rd car in line, put your seat belt on and start the car and let it warm up. I bring my car to the water box with a water temp &lt;150 degrees, but that's just where I get the best performance. Just look at what temp your car is at when the lane director sends you out. You want to remember this and write the water temp on the back of the time slip for future reference. (if you plan to go to the track much at all there is no limit to how much info you record on your time slip,, every detail is helpfull to find better performance)

Your ready, the lane director sends you out...

DRIVE AROUND THE WATER DO NOT drive through the damn water. Your street tires up front will drag water to the starting line and you will just blow the rear tires off in wheel spin,, as will every car behind you. I can't stress this enough. Street tires are designed to disperse water, that water goes up into the tread and get's carried to the starting line,,, both front and rear. Drive around the water and back up to the moist pavement just in front of the area they are wetting down. Put the car in low gear and wait for the race director / starter to signal you to do your burnout and stage. Here again,,, your street tires will NOT benifit from a huge, long, smokey John Force burnout. Just spin them enough to clean them off (count 1,, 2,, 3 in your mind) and let off the brake until the car starts to roll out. GET GENTLY ON THE BRAKES AND STOP WELL BEFORE THE STAGING BEAMS. Now if you want to look like a rookie,, roll through the staging beams with your front tires and attempt to stage with your rear tires. The race starter, the crowd and everybody will be laughing their ass off. (Now you know why I said to familarize yourself with the track from the stands).
After your burn out, roll gently up to the box that holds the staging beams. Don't doddle, just get your butt up there and turn on that top bulb. As you get close CREAP that last 4 or 5 feet. No gas, just ease up till your "pre stage" comes on.

Ready to race...

DO NOT roll in and turn on the second stage bulb until the other lane has lit his top bulb. This is a courtesy amongst racers and you will be better received if you follow it. While you are waiting for the other lane,,, this is time to clear your head and get ready to race. Don't roll in and go to full stage if you are not ready. As soon as you are full staged that is the signal to the starter you are ready to race. If your arent,, shame on you. Again CREAP forward ever so slightly (only 7" between pre-stage and full staged) till you turn on the second stage bulb. Now it's just you, the tree and the track. Focus on the third yellow bulb. Pay no attention to anything but that third yellow. (or the starter if he waves you off) I've written a lot here to get to what you asked in the first place, but As SOON as that third yellow glows,, off the brake and go wide open.

On a pass....
Time to use your head and driving skills. If the car spins hard, you have to make the decision if you are going to east out of the throttle some or drive through it. ABOVE ALL ELSE if you start to get in trouble, drift out towards the centerline or the wall, ease out of the throttle and gently get on the brakes. An aborted pass is a safe pass, a reckless pass will get you tossed off the track. No one laughs at anyone who lifts and races another day. Should something go wrong and you feel something in the drive train let go,, again lift and get on the brakes. As soon as you have slowed to a controlable speed get out of the groove. Pull as far to the side of the track as you can (up close to the wall) and get stoped as quickly as you can. The track officials and all other racers will thank you for making the cleanup as brief as possible. I doubt you will have a problem,, just wanted to let you know what to do 'in case'.

The finish line and shutdown...

Most tracks are clearly marked at the finish line,, and the two cones in the center of the track that time the car for a MPH are the clue. Again you know this because you famalirized your self with the track before you ever got in the staging lanes,, right! As you cross the finish line,, don't snap the throttle shut and jam on the brakes. The SBC rods are tough dudes, but they are designed to take pressure from above,,, when you go from power to decell is when they are most vulnerable. As you cross the finish line lift out of the throttle with a steady motion, not a snap. Then ease into the brakes. Most tracks have AMPLE runout room and numerous turnouts. Bringing our car down from trap MPH is to be done SAFELY,, that's why they give you all that room.

Getting off the track...

EXTREAMLY IMPORTANT! NEVER just turn across an adjoining lane. Always let the lane with the turn out roads have the right of way,,, even if you are WAY ahead. He could have had a problem at the starting line and be bearing down on you at 130MPH.
KNOW where you opponent is and what he is doing before you ever turn across his lane. It's best to slow down and let him pass you and follow him off the track if the turnout is on his side. Likewise if the turnouts are on your side of the track, Never assume the idiot in the other lane is going to give you the right of way. As you approach the turnouts be cautious ,,, you never know if the other lane has been paying attention.

Got a time slip...

Time to do some data logging. As I said earlier, there is no end to the usefull info you can jot down on the back of your time slip.
Just a few things to keep track of,,,
Engine temp at the water box
Engine temp at the pre-stage bulb
Engine temp at the end of the pass
Trans temp (same intervals)
Length of burnout (1,2,3 count etc)
Tire pressure (front and rear)
Shock settings
Air cleaner on or off
Jet's in the carb (primary / secondary/ powervalve)
Ignition timing
mufflers on / off
Launch rpm
Shift rpm
(and one of the things you will find EVERY serious racer tracking,,, enviornmental)
Air temp
humidity
barrometric pressure
corrected altitude
wind (head wind, tail wind etc)

If you track every detail of the pass and track results with any change,, the trends of what your car likes and dislikes will come to
light real quick.

So I never tried "side stepping" the clutch. I assume you tach it up, slide your foot off of the clutch and let it pop.