View Full Version : u-joint help
12-09-2001, 11:18:00 AM
Welp the new centersection is in place and the car is back on the ground,, but what made me think this was going to be a easy bolt-in process. The new Strange 35 spline pinion yoke wants a u-joint 3-5/8" end to end, with 1-3/16" bearing cups. The drive shaft wants a standard 9" u-joint with 1-1/16" bearing cups only 3-3/16" end to end. Anybody know of a site that lists Spicer u-joints so I can find a part # for what I need (if they even make it) The locals just give me the usual blank stare.
Just my 2cents and maybe worth both of them...
The Track Toy (http://CompuSult.casagrande.com/~mhd/nova.htm)
The Street Toy (http://CompuSult.casagrande.com/~mhd/md_toy.htm)
12-09-2001, 12:18:00 PM
damn I don't know the part number but your local Napa autoparts should have it.
Musclecar Technologies LLC (http://www.musclecartechnologies.com)
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12-09-2001, 10:44:00 PM
Might try these folks Marv,
12-10-2001, 01:01:00 PM
How about a Precision # 348.
Measures 3 5/8 across (with caps on) and has 1 3/16 caps
3 7/32 across with 1 1/16 caps
This joint has outside lock rings all around.
Wasn't sure how precise of a measurement you took. I can check a 348 with a micrometer if necessary.
Maybe you local parts people can cross this # to a Spicer # (I couldn't find the ujoint cross book)
12-10-2001, 03:14:00 PM
I think you nailed it Paul. Talked with Strange again today and what I need is a Spicer 1350 x 1310 cross over. Oddly enough that's exactly what Strange called it.(go figure http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif )
Thanks guys, the last pieces are on thier way.
12-10-2001, 06:47:00 PM
Spicer part # is 5-460X but the 1310 side is borderline being generous for the hp you're running.If I were you I would change everything to 1350 which would be on the d/s.If the front has this already then all you need to do is change the weld yoke on the rear.The cost of the ujoints are far cheaper than and more readily availabile than conversion ujoints.
12-11-2001, 02:39:00 PM
craggar you are 100% right,, I've been eating 2 of these 1310's every season. Completly shatter the bearing cup. I got a price from Mark Williams to build me a new aluminum shaft, 1350 yokes and U-joints,, OUCH!!!!! I'm going to have to live with the bastard u-joint and the existing shaft for a while,, well at least till after Christmas.
Thanks for the part #, I'll put a spare on order 'just in case' it doesn't last till I can get a new shaft on it's way.
12-11-2001, 04:08:00 PM
Yes aluminium will cost dearly but in the meantime for about a $100.Cdn you could change the yoke and rebalance the shaft and probably not lose a noticable amount in time at the track.When you do go too aluminium let me know if you gain anything I've been tossing around the idea but didn't think it would help enough to justify the cost.
12-11-2001, 04:51:00 PM
Yeah, Marv, I hear you about the MW stuff. You might try dynotech. That's what Chris is using, and that's probably what I'm going to do. It's a little cheaper, and if it works for Chris, I'm sure it'll work for me!! http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif
12-11-2001, 05:52:00 PM
Busting a ujoint at the track is no fun!! I had personal experience last summer with my stock units. Screwed up my driveshaft also. I converted to 1350s using billet tranny and pinion yokes and had a new driveshaft made. Hopefully will be the last I'll have to mess with it.
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12-16-2001, 03:24:00 PM
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! This SUX. Strange tells me I need a Spicer 1310 x 1350 cross over, they will have it on Tuesday. They ship 2nd day air and I recieve it Friday. Couldn't get to it yesterday but opened the box today and I have a Precision #348. OK, I can live with that,, then I look again....
SHIT!!!!! This is mis-boxed or there is something screwy. The order says #348 OR 5-460x,, (just as you guys have listed) Problem the 1310 side is for INTERNAL snap rings and measures 3-5/8 NOT 3-5/16 on the 1-1/16 cross.
Is this thing mis-boxed or what!
12-16-2001, 10:16:00 PM
Ran into this before, got lucky and switched the cups from another joint I had laying around. Might see what you can come up with along this line. Local NAPA keeps some of these in stock where I live.
12-16-2001, 10:52:00 PM
Tried that Tom. In fact I had just put a new 1310 u-joint in when I found the rear end problem (and resulting in the new center section) The length of the cross on this 1310 side just isn't going to cut it. With the cups for external retainers it was still the same length.
12-17-2001, 10:46:00 AM
That's another problem conversion ujoints most people aren't sure what they're looking at what it sounds like is you got a the conversion for 3R instead of 1310 which is very common on chevs.
12-17-2001, 08:09:00 PM
I looked again at the 348
3.212" across on the 1 1/16 caps side
3.655" across on the 1 3/16 caps side
All caps use external snap rings
Measurements were taken with the caps on.
I checked the two we had in stock, they were within .03 of each other all around.
12-17-2001, 10:30:00 PM
Strange confirmed,, this damn thing was misboxed. I had a friend pick up a Spicer in Tucson and now I FINALLY have the last pieces to put this thing together. Thanks for the help Pauly