Can it be done & with what parts. Im running a power glide with 4.11's. I also have disk brakes, I heard you can't run the C-Clip Eliminators with Disks. I plan on running a spool & don't want a FRD in my CHEVY.

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

Get a Dana 60........

------------------
Arron Spitzer
Sales Rep.
Musclecar Technologies LLC (http://www.musclecartechnologies.com)
Honest Answers.........LOW PRICES!

The thing is you don't need C-clip eliminators with disks. They don't make the axle any stronger they just keep the wheel from goin bye-bye if you snap an axle. With disk brakes the caliper holds the axle in if the axle brakes.

------------------
'75 LT (Lotsa Time)

I'm with pony, or a moser or currie 9 but not even sure if that will last? As far as the c-clips, don't you just use press in bearings w/ disk brakes?

I know the Dana 60 would be alot stronger but I have the Orig. 70SS 12 bolt & want to keep it in the car. I have looked at the fab 9 housing but don't want the FRD 9in. Im trying to keep the car looking pretty stock from the outside. The only thing you'll see is the big tires. The motor won't sound that loud due to the turbos. So what can I do to keep the 12in. Axle tube thickness? Axles? Braces? Ring & pinion?

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

If yer really going to put 1200 HP through a Camaro one of the last things I would worry about is the rear. The first thing I would worry about is the frame, or lack thereof.

With 1200 HP how stock can a car look being it really needs a full cage, and be back halved.

------------------
70 SS 454 CI 650+HP All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block

It will have a 10pt cage. But it will only have 12in tires. I had the turbos put together with a .81 AR. This should stall the turbos long enough to get me off the line and give me a good start before they actually make around 1,200 Hp at 16 psi. The motor will only be making around 650hp without the turbos spooled. As far as the frame it should be tied together good enough with the cage and frame connectors.

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

Why not a full cage? Also what are you planning on running for rear suspension? Also what about your trans, are you runnig a transbrake, what r's do you plan on launching at, that will come into play when choosing a rear? Sounds like a neat project.

[This message has been edited by edgar (edited November 18, 2001).]

I didn't want the full monkeybar set. I know it would be safer, but I want the interior to look as close to stock as possible. Alot of people say tub it & strip the interior but I want something different. As for the Trans it's a DeadenBear case with Trans brake professionally built to take the abuse. I will not be launching above 3,500. With the turbo's you don't need the valve spring braking lobes on the cam, that require a higher stall converter. As soon as I find out what to do with the rear-end I will be making a trip to Southern Ca. to Ken Dutweiler's shop for the exhaust.

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

Ask Dutweilier what to use for a rear. He'll tell ya.

------------------
70 SS 454 CI 650+HP All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block

First off you suck,(Just kidding) thats my combination. I have been researching/planning for a few years on a similar combo 427, twin turbos, efi. I am planning on twin 60-1 turbo with the .81 A/R housing, "O" trim tangential turbines, should flow enough.
On the subject of the ford 9 vs. 12 bolt. Comparing stock to stock the strength is about the same or so I have read. The advantage is the ford has more aftermarket options and is easier to change center section, and no c-clips. I also think its more cost effective to build a 9 inch. My friends ,72RS with a 468 with N2O had a 12 bolt, a Powerglide and transbrake it would run mid 10's with no breakeage. There must be some reason why everyone from stock cars to drag racers use them instead of the original rearends.
I bought a stock 9 inch from a friend with factory discs. It will be a while before I get it in though. I will run the 10 bolt until it lets go.
How about some more info on the turbo setup?


[This message has been edited by f-body (edited November 19, 2001).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 70 Z UC:
As soon as I find out what to do with the rear-end I will be making a trip to Southern Ca. to Ken Dutweiler's shop for the exhaust.

</font>

if you dont mind, what did Dutweiler quote you for the Exh? A friend of mine with a 64 Nova was quoted something like $60K for a TT setup on his car & they were going to reuse his old motor (Blown Donovan) with a cam change. so essentially Dutweiler was going to provide tubing, turbo's, wastegate, IC, & tuning (& all the small stuff). I did not think that for $60K that was such a good deal. I figured that for $60K, he could do it himself & blow it up a bunch of times, & actually this is my plan, just gotta get the 'maro back on the road to happyness & then can start on the race car.

BW

I think he must have said 24kt. plating on EVERYTHING. I got a quote directly from Ken of around $1,500-$2,000 to do all the exhaust pluming for the turbos in heavy guage stainless.I raced with The guy Steve that actually does the welding, back in 91. Ken is also where I got all of my info on what to choose for my Camaro to eliminate the tire/power problem. He is a very hard person to get ahold of though.

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

I was not in the conversation directly so I am not sure what that was all about. I could live with what he told you. what is he supplying?

what are you using for an intake mainold?
what EFI system are you using?
what IC are you using? (is Dutweiler providing)?
what turbo's are you using?

thanks mucho
BW

He's supplying the material's & his time. I will probably have him Dyno tune the motor also, As I don't know of anybody around here that can handle that kind of power output. Im using a Dart manifold plumbed for Injection, Motec fuel Inj.$3,600,And a pair of T66 turbo's with a .81 A/R & P trim $1,200 ea with tuff turbo option.

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

[This message has been edited by 70 Z UC (edited November 20, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by 70 Z UC (edited November 30, 2001).]

Right on. few more questions if you dont mine.

is he building you an IC or are you buying one over the counter?

who is Modoc? I have not heard of them. sounds kind of like Motec but not.

thanks amigo, I look forward to seeing your beast.

BW

Yep your right I thought I typed Motec,I'll slow my typing down a little. I hope one day I even get to see the BEAST completed. I had no Idea what I was getting into with a turbo setup $$$$$$$. By saying IC are you refering to an InterCooler???? I may have missed that one.

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

Yes intercooler. Air to Air or Air to Water?

BW

At first I wanted to do an air/water, But finding room & dificulty became an Issue. So I decided on Air/Air. I will probably buy an over the counter cooler. I have yet to start looking for one but that is in the near future. I need to figure out the size that will fit properly behind the grill area. What Im trying to do, is get the car back to the point where it's a roller to make it eazyer to get down to him. Right now the motor is done but the car has not one bolt on it. I also have the sub frame in for powder coating right now. So what would you do rear-end wize in my situation. Remember my plans on wanting to keep the orig 12 bolt.

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right

Personally I would go with 9", but a 12 Bolt done right will hangin in there for a while. I would suggest that you buy the entire thing done @ once & all with the best stuff that you can get in it. fortunatly for you, you are going with a turbo. This means that the power is going to come on "slowly" compared to BIG NOS shots or a roots that comes on pretty much instantly. I think that you are going to find that you are going to get good @ replacing bearings & gear sets. with a 9" it is a bit simpler, pull the axels & drop the center section out. with the 12 Bolt, you either pull the entire rear end or have to do it laying under the car & that my friend is not fun (not for us &gt;6' tall guys @ least, that have to do it on the garage floor).

I have looked @ the room in the front end of my RS & I think that with a bit of thought & some carefull cutting that I could get a serious air to air cooler in there. an Air to water might fit if I cut the radiator core support & moved the radiator & Tranny cooler back (elect fans so I have room) the thing is that I am going to have to have room for the Turbo's & moving that stuff back would put a crimp on that.

Truth be told this is why I am not going to turbo this car. it is likely that I am going with a 65,66 chevelle & just cut the front end to bones & start from scratch.

BW

hmm, Turbo V8s, not how God intended, but damn does it work nice...A Dana 60 will do the job nicely, but with that monsterous of a setup, why do you want to keep stock interior/rear end? You still have to have a cage, and even with the stall and no boost, traction can be an inssue. Now, my turn: Dream Turbo car, 92' Z/28 Twin turbo 400 SB, built to rev to about 8K, and put it through a Viper 6 speed. what a daily driver...

I think I'll stick to my Gen VI Hyd Roller, 496 with 200 HP shot of NOS. (830 HP Daily Driver, 32 miles per day)I really think that this is the only way to keep things looking stock.
Twin Turbos = Full Roll Cage + Back Half. Keep the 12 bolt and put the 9" end bearings for a good seal. Call Hoopers Rear Ends in Sun Valley, CA.



------------------
Mad Marshall

get a hold of moser engineering, you tell them the horse power and what your building and they can build you a 10/12 bolt to handle it

I'd agree if you want to stay with a 12 bolt call Greg Moser and he can hook you up with a 12 bolt that will be as good as you can get.I've run a set of his axles in my narrowed 12 bolt for almost 15 years now.I run a big block , turbo 350 , and 29x13.5x15 Mickey Thompson Super Sportsman along with a c clip eliminator kit.All that being said in reality you'd probably be better off with the 9" but I preferto keep it all GM also.

------------------
Big Blocks Forever

Thanks for all the help. Does anyone have a phone # to Moser

------------------
A Little Power Is Good,More Is Better,To Much Is Just Right