Thanks to Dino's webpage, I just ordered a replica of my car (well, as close as I think it's going to get). Can't believe they made a Classic Copper! Wish it had the standard front end, but I can't complain. BTW, I searched about 6 different sites and Uncle Ken's had the best price by at least $5.00 and the shipping was the most reasonable. Didn't know if anyone else had heard of this place.

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1971 Z28
Classic Copper w/ black stripes
Matching #s (w/ exception of carb and headers)
M-22


[This message has been edited by Bion (edited 09-20-2000).]

Bion,

Glad you found one. Tell you what I would do. Find another one in the same scale that has the standard front end on it. Then switch it out. Walla, then you have a true replica of your car. Then get another copper one for a spare.

Bob R

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1973 Z28 Original Owner
6 Year Frame Off Restoration
http://www.geocities.com/bobr73z28

I'm glad my site helped out....

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'73 Z28, 4 spd, A/C
www.geocities.com/dinograz (http://www.geocities.com/dinograz)




[This message has been edited by dinograz (edited 09-20-2000).]

I'd love to get another one and do the switch -a-roo with the front end. Unfortunately, I get in enough trouble spending all of my spare cash on the car, that if I invest another $40-80 in a toy car, I'd probably end up living in the Camaro LOL.

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1971 Z28
Classic Copper w/ black stripes
Matching #s (w/ exception of carb and headers)
M-22

My car is also Classic Copper and I too bouught the Ertl model on ebay last week. It comes w/a black interior but I bought a second one in Hugger Orange. I'm taking that interior out and painting it in Sandlewood to match my car and then will switch them out. Kind of a pain, but hey, pretty cool to have a die cast model of my car!

hey 70RS, the black ERTL Camaro SS (#32515) already has the sandlewood color interior in it. Would be a lot easier to just switch the interior than paint one. I have one on my 1:18 diecast page that is the citrus green with sandlewood interior switched into it if you want to see the color... http://www.geocities.com/dinograz/118diecast.html

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'73 Z28, 4 spd, A/C
www.geocities.com/dinograz (http://www.geocities.com/dinograz)



[This message has been edited by dinograz (edited 09-22-2000).]

Thanks for the info Dino. That would be much easier. I'll check it out!

How hard is it to take them apart?and how to do door panels come off?

I bought my customs already done so I can't give first hand knowledge but I e-mailed the guy that I bought mine from and asked him his techniques. Here's what he had to say....

Start with a clean soft towel to lay the auto
on. To take the door panels off you use a thin blade knive. Slide it
between the door and panel and twist it gently moving around the panel. All
the ones I have changed turn loose pretty easy. You will keep spreading the
panel apart from the door as you go around it. Don't twist it too much in
one place cause you might break it. There are four pegs on each door that
fit into the pack of the panel. I have encountered a little glue but not
very much.

The chassis comes off very easy - just remove all the screws
keeping them separated cause some are different. Once the screws have been
removed, open both doors and (gently) pop the steering column down from its
position in the dash. The chassis is now ready to be separated from the
body. Sometimes the interior is attached to the chassis but it can be
separated easily with a knive. Just stick the knive between the two and
twist them apart. There are two screws holding the hood hinge to the body -
remove them, the support, the hood and lay it aside clear from the work
area.

The dash is held in place with brads. I took a drill and drilled the
head off the brad just enough to separate the dash from the body. Do the
same with the other auto and then switch the parts. I put a small bit of
super glue on the pins holding the dash in position for a little extra
strength. They make a "quick setting" solutiuon for super glue. Be sure to
get some of it because the glue will emit fumes that will "fog" plastic and
doesn't look too good on clear plastic. The door panels should (normally)
snap into place. I have uses a little glue on them before - but just a
"touch" and don't worry about the fumes here. The interior will fit right
into the body and then replace the chassis. You might have to "wiggle" it a
little but it will fall back into place. Watch the steering wheel to make
sure it is not sticking "under" the dash. Once you have all the screws back
in their proper place "gently" snap the steering column back into position
in the dash.

This one's for 70RS, it's just what your looking for....
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=454440150+

Thanks again, Dino!

Bion and 70RS,
I have a 71 Z in Burnt Orange too. Its funny that I've only seen that color a couple times elsewhere ane here's 2 more! Do you either have any pics? I'd love to see them if you do. And as for do I have the diecast?.... well do you think anyone on this board would pass on a chance to have a model to match their car!!!!!! Of course not!!

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Tom
'71 Z matching #'s restification, mostly stock (it doesn't get out nearly as much as it should!)
Tom's 71 Z (http://members.aol.com/twox48/CamaroPage.htm)