View Full Version : tip of the day for kick panel removal....


Mathes79Z
09-12-2001, 11:16:00 PM
a crowbar will result in the loss of either fingers, blood, or your kickpanel pieces.
however, if you simply take the two nuts off the back of the parking brake cable that are located under your hood under your brake booster, then take the nut off right above the lever for the parking brake, the parking brake will fall nicely out of your way, then remove all the screws holding it in.

took me about 5 min's to take it out (what was left), it probably took the guy i got the car off of about 2 hours to bust off most of what i unscrewed. looked like the thing exsploded. he told me he couldnt figure out how to get it out, must be stuck. yea.... stuck to the firewall with screws!

ok, vented.

the pass side comes out even easier.

3SLO5
09-12-2001, 11:37:00 PM
i know how you feel the retard guy that had the car befor me i guess was trying to put in a new heater core he busted up the heater box under the dash removed all the ac stuff in the engine compartment cut the inner fender in half then put it back together with duct tape so i had to but everything from another car at the junk yard and now my heat is hot and my ac is cold.

79camaro305
09-13-2001, 07:53:00 PM
The only problem is, unfortunately, they (GM) used some type of ultra-industrial strength glue to hold the things on. Even with all of the above off, you will more than likely still have a hard time with it..
But, if this helps ya get at it, it's a good tip...

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79 with 305, being completely redone inside and out (but no engine work) and a Sunroof. Why?
81 with a v6 Dual flows, t-tops. Will be fixing body soon and maybe repainting-gonna be daily driver.
Beautify America. Drive a Camaro.

Mathes79Z
09-13-2001, 09:55:00 PM
no glue, just a whole lot of sound deadaner material, just pull slowly and it will all come out.

about the hot ac and cold heat, could your valve on your heaterbox be backwards?

reinhardt65
12-16-2001, 08:21:00 PM
talking about stupid xxx people and xxxx they do with these 20 some year old cars....
first... i got a camaro that some dumb xxxx let the whole frame rust up... so i got this sweet engine w/ no body. so i found it a body... the body was in a field for 2 years... it interesting... some of the stuff ppl do... i found a shoe string where a metal rod belonged... that was strange... i find different bolts in the wrong places... and the list goes on....


EDIT: language. please keep a hold on those words. thanks.

[This message has been edited by patgizz (edited December 17, 2001).]

Mountaineer
12-17-2001, 08:43:00 AM
The black gooey stuff around the vent is not glue or sound deadener, its weatherstripping putty to keep the outside elements from coming in around the vent to the floorboard.

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bagpuss
06-03-2008, 10:38:50 PM
gonna try that, lots of cursing this past weekend, eventually gave up, kick panels 1, me 0. till we meet again kick panels!!.:whine: :whine:

John Wright
06-04-2008, 09:20:11 AM
Also...don't forget to loosen or take off the metal A-pillar trim...the kick panels go under the edges of that metal trim.....and do replace the weather stripping putty or you will have water leaks...but only when it rains or you wash your car...LOL

SG71SS
06-04-2008, 01:42:08 PM
gonna try that, lots of cursing this past weekend, eventually gave up, kick panels 1, me 0. till we meet again kick panels!!.:whine: :whine:

Do what the guy said in 2001.

Below is for A/C kick panels.

Driver side:
1.) Remove 2 nuts on the motor side of firewall which holds the e-brake assembly in place.
2.) Inside car, remove one bolt (top of e-brake assembly) and one nut (the one on the bolt that pokes through the kick panel) holding e-brake assembly in place. This will allow you to swing assembly out of the way enough to remove 2 or 3 hidden screws holding the kick panel in place.
3.) Remove screws, loosen sill plate and a-pillar. Kick panel will come right out.

Passenger side:
1.) Remove screws holding actuator cover.
2.) Remove 2 bolts holding actuator.
3.) Remove rest of screws holding kick panel. Another tip is to use those S-shaped screwdrivers since the heater box will not allow you to use a regulear screwdriver for one of the screws.
4.) Remove kick panel. It WILL clear the heater box housing. Kind of lift up and then pull out.

li0nhart123
06-07-2008, 01:02:47 AM
Also...don't forget to loosen or take off the metal A-pillar trim...the kick panels go under the edges of that metal trim.....and do replace the weather stripping putty or you will have water leaks...but only when it rains or you wash your car...LOL


guess what i forgot to do....i ended up with two inches of water on my passenger floor...

Joe H
12-11-2009, 09:01:48 AM
Do what the guy said in 2001.

Below is for A/C kick panels.

Driver side:
1.) Remove 2 nuts on the motor side of firewall which holds the e-brake assembly in place.
2.) Inside car, remove one bolt (top of e-brake assembly) and one nut (the one on the bolt that pokes through the kick panel) holding e-brake assembly in place. This will allow you to swing assembly out of the way enough to remove 2 or 3 hidden screws holding the kick panel in place.
3.) Remove screws, loosen sill plate and a-pillar. Kick panel will come right out.

Passenger side:
1.) Remove screws holding actuator cover.
2.) Remove 2 bolts holding actuator.
3.) Remove rest of screws holding kick panel. Another tip is to use those S-shaped screwdrivers since the heater box will not allow you to use a regulear screwdriver for one of the screws.
4.) Remove kick panel. It WILL clear the heater box housing. Kind of lift up and then pull out.


Another old post that helped me out. You guys are great. Thanks

masparks
12-11-2009, 02:20:17 PM
I'm getting ready to do this this afternoon!! Thanks alot!!!

Took interrior out this morning. CAMARO IS IN REHAB!!!!

5spd540
12-11-2009, 10:32:54 PM
I need to remove them from my car but I know they are a pain in the a-- to remove.

1971BB427
12-12-2009, 07:54:19 PM
Just changed the heater core in my '71 and I decided it was time to improve Chevy's design! I pulled all the nuts off the air box, then pulled the box out enough to get it away from the firewall. At this point I used my Sawzall to cut the box in half top to bottom. This allows the heater core clips to be removed without pulling the inner fender, or fan motor half.
Once the clips are removed from the firewall side, I can pull the internal air box and drop the old core, install the new core, and then go back under the hood and reinstall the clips.
Before reinstalling the right half of the modified box I welded a 1" wide strip of sheetmetal on it to overlap the left side, and put foam gasket on the strip that overlaps. Then reinstalled the right side and replaced the nuts to hold it.
Just replaced my heater core again last weekend, and it was a breeze compared to the first time! It's not stock anymore, but it's a heck of a lot better!

5spd540
12-14-2009, 10:27:13 PM
Do you have any pics of what you did to improve it.

1971BB427
12-14-2009, 11:26:03 PM
Do you have any pics of what you did to improve it.

This is an old picture from before the restoration, but if you look at the heater box you can see next to the passenger side hood hinge the overlapping metal seam on the heater box. I don't have a closeup, but maybe I can get one soon.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/cam15.jpg