on the 70 Z-28, is the Z-28 trim code really 28.10 as i've seen on another websight info, or is that a typo? mine says Z28.10 on the cowl tag and i'm questioning the fact that it's a Z now. thanks

The information I have says that they used 28.10 in 70 and Z28.10 in 71, but there is a good chance that both were used in either year.

I would say that if the rest of the car looks right, I wouldn't be too suspicious about something like this.

if that was all, i wouldn't be that suspicious, BUT.... it also has the wrong tach(5000/7000)and i don't think it's a Z gas pedal. right now it's just a rod coming from a swivel bracket mounted to the firewall with 3 bolts, then the bracket extends upward where it holds some kind of electric plunger switch for the pedal linkage. i don't think that's correct. but it does have the th-400 and 3.73 posi 12-bolt and i swear it's an lt-1 engine(4-bolt, windage tray, steel crank, pink rods, .100 dome 11:1 forged pistons, even correct part # alum. high rise intake and dual snorkel breather. i don't know. vin 124870N559778 if that helps. thanks

The tach is wrong. It should be an 8000 rpm one, not the standard 7000 rpm version.

The electric plunger on the gas pedal could be the downshift switch for a TH400, but the gas pedal for a Z28 should not hang from the firewall. It should be floor mounted.

Try to get the numbers off the engine. They should identify whether it is a Z28 engine, and also if it is original, it should have the VIN stamped on the engine, and also the TH400.

Greg,
A couple other things you need to check.
1) Does it have a rear sway bar?
2) Does it have bumperettes on the rear bumper?
3) Does it have the front "travel limiting" blocks under the control arm bumpers?

Like mentioned above, get the numbers off the block, tranny and rear end.

Your gas pedal linkage sounds correct. As Gary mentioned, the plunger is probably the kickdown for the th400. Sounds like you are missing the pedal and the floor mounted bracket for the pedal. If the floor isn't rusted, you should find one small hole and two slightly larger holes where the bracket was mounted. If the floor is rusted away, that might explain why the bracket and pedal are missing.

Dennis

[This message has been edited by dkatap (edited September 30, 2003).]

thanks guys. mulsane, it does have rear sway bar, it has no bumper right now, but it does have the holes in the lower valence for bumperetts to bolt to. i think that's how they go. i don't know what the travel limiting blocks are. please explain. thanks

It's the aluminum block under the lower control arm bumper.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid82/p03eca1444cc2549c6803a112aa0ed7ed/faed7cbb.jpg

Man..... I should have cleaned that area before I posted the photo..... Oh well, something to do this winter http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

[This message has been edited by mulsane71z (edited October 02, 2003).]

Truest way to tell for true Z is by looking for your partial VIN on the engine, which is probably on the rough cast boss by the oil filter; AND checking for the CTB suffix (if 4 speed car) on the boss by the passenger side head. If your VIN is on the engine, and the CTB code is there also, with correct engine build date in relation to your car's build date (engine build date before car's build date), then it is a Z UNLESS the engine was restamped with a VIN to match your car's VIN. If restamped, its easy to see. Only experience in seeing restamps will be able to tell a restamp. PS: does your trim tag appear to be re-applied? Check the rivets. Re-seam sealed over the rivets?

mulsane, checked my control arms and they do have the spacer blocks under the rubber bump stops.dkatap, pulled all the junk out of the floorboard, cleaned out some dirt and found what appears to be a small upside down box mounted on the floorboard with two swivel ball studs in it. sound right? i have no idea how the gas pedal mounts. what do you think? thanks, greg

Greg, sounds to me like you have a real Z28.

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1970 Z-28,1970 ss 350 SURVIVOR ,1970 SS396 L78,1972 SS396

Vfitom2aol, I maintain a stamp press to put numbers on Briggs & Stratton engines. When we stamp numbers, they are all stamped at once. If someone tried to stamp them one at a time, then it would look totally different. It takes about 1,200 lbs pressure to do this hydraulically with all the numbers at once, and I don't know how much pressure a mechanical stamp press delivers. My question, if someone was to fake the numbers on a Camaro engine, would they run into the same problems? If all numbers are in a perfect row, with the same depth, would this tell you that the numbers aren't fake? I don't know anything about misrepresentation, so do these less than moral people have this figured out? I hope that fakes can be uncovered for what they are.

gas pedal mount sound right? how does the pedal mount to the bracket and arm?

Greg, That is the right gas pedal. The correct pedal mounts on the 2 ball studs on the floor bracket. Sounds like you have the real deal.

Dennis

Als78, from what I have seen over the years, an amateur restamp is not a gang stamp, is sloppy, and usually too deep. Original GM stampings are nice crisp lines with a distinctive depth. I have seen amateurs use 2 zeroes to make an 8, believe it or not. I have seen restamps in valleys on a boss after someone ground out the original stamp. Granted, there are companies that do restamps correctly. But is a restamp ethical? If the same number is restamped after a decking, then its OK in my opinion. If not the same and meant to deceive or portray the car as something else, then its just not right, and fraudulent. But restamps that try to look like GM originals just aren't it. Some stamps are even in the wrong spots on the boss. Wish I had some pics to show you. Interesting.

thanks for all your help guys. what a relief. i didn't pay much for the car($2000) but if it wasn't a real z, it wouldn't have been such a bargain. only problem is there are no numbers on the block boss in front of the pass. head. block decking i guess, so it wasn't so easy to verify. thanks again, greg

Sounds like you have a '70 Z Greg.....

If you need help with your gas pedal, email me directly. I'll try and snap some photos for you.

anybody ever see a column shift auto in a '70 Z-28. that's what mine was(converting to floor and console). guy at GM said the console floor shifter was an option that MOST all of the Z's were ordered with, but if the order didn't specify, it got a column shift. anyway, what's the chance that the put a different tach in the column shift than the floor shifter cars. just a thought since mine appears to be wrong. i just don't know why anyone would change their tach to a standard 5000/7000 tach. anybody got a good 8000rpm Z tach for sale?