View Full Version : How much SPI Epoxy Primer and Epoxy Activator will I need??


NYH1
12-21-2010, 02:24:38 AM
How much SPI Epoxy Primer and Epoxy Activator will I need to do my whole car. By whole car I mean, the complete exterior of the car, the door jams, the bottoms and back sides of the doors, the bottom of the trunk lid, the area under and around the trunk gasket, the fenders under the hood and in the engine compartment area.

Would 2 quarts of Epoxy Primer and 2 quarts of Epoxy Activator be enough? That would be a gallon of useable Epoxy Primer correct?

Thanks, NYH1! :bowtie:

motorhead76
12-21-2010, 08:53:23 AM
Most primer doesnt mix 1 to1 you will have to see what the mixing ratio is.Depends on how many coats you want to put.Are you going to prime it b lock it and then prime it again? I prime everything twice.It will probably take a full gallon and then whatever you mix it with. What is the mixing ratio?

kawboy
12-21-2010, 09:04:40 AM
SPI epoxy is 1:1. If I were you I would buy 1 gallon of epoxy and 1 gallon of activator. That way you don't have to worry about not having enough to do everything and skimping in some areas. Then if something happens you will also have enough without buying more. Also if you price it buy the quart and by the gallon it is a much better deal to buy it by the gallon.

BusDriver
12-21-2010, 09:07:11 AM
SPI is 1:1

I'd get at least a gallon of each part, that should get you most of the way.

bobbin
12-21-2010, 09:52:02 AM
Depends on how many times you want to prime. But 2 gallons of primer should be more then enough to cover everything.

boardog
12-21-2010, 11:30:46 AM
2 gallons of sprayable material will be close. depends on thickness, number of coats, spray gun, tip size. if you are shooting everything inside and out and have a 1.8 or a 2.0 tip in the gun you might wind up short.

blazerman
12-21-2010, 10:56:18 PM
I just finished doing this, 2 gallon kits are what you need. This gives you enough to do final seal before paint. Just a word of warning, if you are working in a cold environment be sure to get the metal temp over 65 degrees or it will take forever to dry - not a knock on the product, just passing on my learning experience

NYH1
12-22-2010, 01:33:10 AM
Thanks for all the info guys.

I have to weld in a few patches. Nothing major though. I'll clean all the bare metal areas per SPI's instructions and with their products. Then I'll spray epoxy primer directly over all of my bare metal areas. As well as spraying it over the entire car. Before applying any body filler. Once I get the body filler sanded down to wear it needs to be, I'll spray SPI's high build primer over the whole car and block sand it out. Then I was thinking about spraying one final coat of epoxy primer over the whole car to seal it. Then I might have to spray a regular primer after that. Then have the color sprayed on.

Does the above sound correct? I'm not a body/fender/painter by any means. Just a guy on a very tight budget that REALLY WANTS to learn and do as much of the work that I can do on my car. PLEASE feel free to correct me if I'm not heading in the correct way. It'll be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks, NYH1! :happy:

77nomad
12-22-2010, 01:45:10 AM
I got a gallon of SPI. Its cheap enough to not really matter.

Blu-By-U 79Z
12-22-2010, 03:09:54 PM
Thanks for all the info guys.

I have to weld in a few patches. Nothing major though. I'll clean all the bare metal areas per SPI's instructions and with their products. Then I'll spray epoxy primer directly over all of my bare metal areas. As well as spraying it over the entire car. Before applying any body filler. Once I get the body filler sanded down to wear it needs to be, I'll spray SPI's high build primer over the whole car and block sand it out. Then I was thinking about spraying one final coat of epoxy primer over the whole car to seal it. Then I might have to spray a regular primer after that. Then have the color sprayed on.

Does the above sound correct? I'm not a body/fender/painter by any means. Just a guy on a very tight budget that REALLY WANTS to learn and do as much of the work that I can do on my car. PLEASE feel free to correct me if I'm not heading in the correct way. It'll be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks, NYH1! :happy:

Some epoxys can be used as primer or sealer. So if SPI can be thinned and used as a sealer then you wouldnt have to do the last step primer. Just finish body work. Seal and spray your color. Sounds like you got the rest down pat.

CamarosRus
12-22-2010, 03:59:57 PM
1) IF I'm ultimately going to have my 70 Z-28 painted by a "pro" with say for example BASF/Glasurit or PPG Global............do I want to gamble that he'll allow the use of SPI primer........or will that be my gamble as Glasurit or the "pro" will not stand behind the finish over the SPI primer ?????

2) My Camaro body mounted on a rotissieri was plastic blasted YEARS ago. It still has small remaining areas of "bondo"/filler
Who/Where can I get trusted exact, precise, instructions to follow as to the preparation of this long standing bare metal body. If necessary I will pay for this help. I'm asking for exact step by step, name by name, # by # instructions.

3) I own or am prepared to buy whatever tools I need to complete this work, or have a moonlighting pro come into my shop for said work.............

Thanks,

earlysecond
12-22-2010, 08:56:18 PM
NH1

Get a 2 gallon sprayable kit. You WILL use it, if not on this project then another. It is priced right and if you keep the can of primer sealed well it will be fine. The Activator comes in a gallon square can with a scew on lid and is fine.

Secondly SPI epox works great as a sealer thinned the amount prescribed in the tech sheet. Once, when it was less than warm out I did this and it needed 12+ hours before it would take the cheap base coat I attempted to lay down next. This may have been a unique problem but I would give it some extra time.

Chuck,

I will post my opinion to your questions here so that others can see them and give different points of view. As we have learned, many of these topics turn out to be unintentionally loaded questions.

1. I am of the belief that if you are paying a "pro" who has to be married to the results in terms of some warranty. . . you let him pick what he sprays. Personally, I believe that SPI products are THE best value out there and the quality is pleasing high. There is a possiblity that your painter would not mind using SPI primer BUT I would think he will use the product or system with which he has the most experience and from which he makes the most profit.
2. There are many ways to skin the same cat. Many who have an opinion whether it is based on fact or not, will promote it as THE 'RIGHT' and only prescribed way. If you are going to tackle this yourself I would glady write down a step by step of what I do, BUT it may not be right and I am only basing it on 5 years of expereince with <15 different paintjobs.
3. It is good that you have the tools, why not research and get the expereince then have the fun and gain the reward of doing it yourself?

Hope that helps in the least,