I've got a buddy who is looking to unload a 350 4 bolt, and I'm interested in buying it. What is it worth, and what should I offer him? The block is a 3970010
casting if I remember right, date unknown as of yet. This is a long block engine, complete rotating assembly in place. Thanks guys.

I've got a buddy who is looking to unload a 350 4 bolt, and I'm interested in buying it. What is it worth, and what should I offer him? The block is a 3970010
casting if I remember right, date unknown as of yet. This is a long block engine, complete rotating assembly in place. Thanks guys.


A good 350 core...My dad picks them up all the time for $50-$100. A 4 bolt is a bonus, but doesnt justify bigger bucks-

depends if the rotating assembly is cast or forged
if forged it is worth a little more

I've sold long blocks for $250 that runs. It's cheap in some area but other it brings the big bucks such as over sea and such.

That block number is the run of the mill 350 that's been made for a lot of years, so I wouldn't expect to pay anymore then $250 for a used motor that's complete from carb to oil pan.

Just my two cents, but if I were looking for an engine to build I'd sure start with a roller block. For a few dollars more you get a whole lot more options for the build up. For the longblock your looking at, stock bore and crank journals, 250 would be a good price.

No more than you'd pay for a 2 bolt block. 2 bolt blocks can be drilled for splayed 4 bolt mains that have the outside two bolts at an angle, rather than straight up and down such as factory blocks, thus, making them stronger. So any additonal price in my opinion is not worth it.

#1) What are your plans for it?
If your wanting a strong N/A street motor a 2 bolt will work as well as a 4 bolt.

#2) If you're wanting to make some serious power either with radical parts &/or power adders then the 4 bolt has it's advantages. Yes, a 2 bolt can be strengthened past a stock 4 bolt for extra $$.

#3) Has the block been rebuilt/bored oversize? Usually 0.030 or 0.040 over is the most you want to go for a reliable engine - especially if you boost it. That said, there are plenty of 0.060 motors running out there making good power.

Value depends on a lot of things. As mentioned above, a forged crank is a plus (hopefully it's still standard), if it has a forged crank it probably has X-rods. These are decent rods that just need re-sized & ARP bolts for a stout street engine up to @ 400hp.

The date of the block matters; the '75 & later castings have less iron. Look for '010' & '020' under the timing cover area; this indicates a high tin & high nickle block. This is the one you want. Another big plus if it has the large (1&11/16") thick balancer - most have the 1&1/2" balancer (OK).

After '78 the dipstick is on the passenger side & you'll need the pan to match. Is a carb or dizzy included?

More than likely all of the other parts will need to be tossed/upgraded & don't add any value (cam, valvetrain, heads, timing chain & gears, intake).

So, if it's a high nickle - high tin heavy block, virgin bore & virgin forged crank, with X-rods, I'd definitely give $250 - $300. :bowtie:

If it's a light-weight block with a cast crank & already 0.040 or 0.060 over then PASS :screwup:

Thanks for all the replies guys, I was planning on checking under the timing cover for numbers, I just got him to check to see if it was a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt today, so far so good, hoping to see 010 and 020 under that timing cover too. Ive thought long and hard about the 2 bolt to splayed 4 bolt conversion, but after getting of the phone with several machine shops, decided finding a factory 4 bolt would be my best bet for a stout street engine, especially on a budget. Most of the machine shops I contacted in Phoenix wouldnt do the job for less than $400, and now that Im in St.George Utah, theres no one in town that will even touch it. Factory 4 bolt with ARP studs for me.

See what the casting numbers are on the 3 center caps. If they're "2482", they're nodular iron and worth more.

Theres 2 4 bolt blocks in C/L around here now for $75

wow you guys are paying pretty cheap for your 350's, around here you have to cut your arm off and give it for the motor lol, people ask $500-$1000 for a running 350 with those exact #'s (69-79). check the suffix code to see the vehicle it came out of, some old trucks and vans came with them but only had 2 brrl, and if you dont plan on changing your top end its just an anchor lol IMHO.


Joe

wow you guys are paying pretty cheap for your 350's, around here you have to cut your arm off and give it for the motor lol, people ask $500-$1000 for a running 350 with those exact #'s (69-79). check the suffix code to see the vehicle it came out of, some old trucks and vans came with them but only had 2 brrl, and if you dont plan on changing your top end its just an anchor lol IMHO.


Joe

You are talking to people who think their stuff is better then others.

I deal with folks who knows the real value of these parts.

Why pay a $1000 for a motor when you can get a new crate motor for $1500 and add a few more parts to get a running motor.

Well guys, I went and had a look at the motor my self today, pulled the pan and timing cover. It was a factory 4 barrel that was removed from a 72 Blazer is what I was told. Under the timing cover I found the original GM nylon timing gear and chain set...So no one has ever been in this engine.

According to this site

3970010 1969-79 350
0111TDD January 11 1972 350
2482 Nodular Iron Caps
3932442 1969-85 305,350 cast iron crank
Has a casting clock on the back arrow points to 'D', So I believe that means its a Saginaw block, day shift?
Also found 010 and G10 under the timing cover, does this mean its 10% nickel, or is the 010 and 020 just a rumor?

Give him $75 and a 12 pack of beer.
Its a good motor to build.

well, the agreed price was $200. Higher than I was hoping for, but lower than you guys said they go for, so I'm happy. Off to the junkyard for some vortec heads and a forged crank..It begins...

Your cast iron stock crank is good to 7,000 rpm bursts.

You could've found a 3/4 ton PU motor for less than $200 and its 4-bolt and forged steel crank stock.

You could've found a 3/4 ton PU motor for less than $200 and its 4-bolt and forged steel crank stock.
ditto

So, both of you guys live close to the OP and know for sure he could have found the block and forged crank for less than $200? Maybe with YOUR connections, but obviously not for this guy. You guys buy 'em all up for $200 and I'll come by and pick 'em up for $300, let me know when you have a few. I'll take all you can find at that price. I've been buying engines/blocks for an overseas buyer for a few years and even living in a place where there are a lot of 3/4 and 1-ton trucks, I've never managed to score that combo for anywhere close to $200.

OP, that's a good buy for that block.

I'd like the forged crank just for peace of mind, durability and longevity. I have frequent moments spirited driving, and dont want to break it battering on it. I may also go for forced induction/laughing gas, so I want to build it once, build it right, and forget about it for a while. Thanks for all of the replies guys, I'm happy with the buy, Id imagine I could sell the cylinder heads, manifold and other misc parts off of it and make up a bit of cash, even if its only 50-100 back in my pocket. Anyone want a 1972 Non-EGR cast iron quadrajet manifold?

wow you guys are paying pretty cheap for your 350's, around here you have to cut your arm off and give it for the motor lol, people ask $500-$1000 for a running 350 with those exact #'s (69-79). check the suffix code to see the vehicle it came out of, some old trucks and vans came with them but only had 2 brrl, and if you dont plan on changing your top end its just an anchor lol IMHO.


Joe
hey joe i have 7- 4 bolt 350's under the bench all of them 0010 blocks 4 bolts
i cant get $100 for them if i tried.there gonna stay right were they are for that kind of money.
sold several mint runners this year had a hard time getting $300

The one I got with my car got rolled off the tailgate into a scrap steel bin. I wen looking for a good core I'd expect to pay about $200 after I inspected or with guarantee its good.

Well guys, I went and had a look at the motor my self today, pulled the pan and timing cover. It was a factory 4 barrel that was removed from a 72 Blazer is what I was told. Under the timing cover I found the original GM nylon timing gear and chain set...So no one has ever been in this engine.

According to this site

3970010 1969-79 350
0111TDD January 11 1972 350
2482 Nodular Iron Caps
3932442 1969-85 305,350 cast iron crank
Has a casting clock on the back arrow points to 'D', So I believe that means its a Saginaw block, day shift?
Also found 010 and G10 under the timing cover, does this mean its 10% nickel, or is the 010 and 020 just a rumor?

No I have an 010/020 block

It is actually heavier, mine is heavier yet with Hardblok up to the bottom of the water pump holes

I will get you a pic in a week or so

I had just seen on a random website that many people noticed no difference in durability/casting hardness when it came to running and machining the 010/020 blocks, and believed that the casting mark was just rumored to be the nickel/tin content of the block, 010 being 10% nickel, 020 being 20% nickel, and both markings meaning 10% tin, 20% nickel. I was wondering if there was any truth to either of the stories. This block just has 010 under the timing cover.

I had just seen on a random website that many people noticed no difference in durability/casting hardness when it came to running and machining the 010/020 blocks, and believed that the casting mark was just rumored to be the nickel/tin content of the block, 010 being 10% nickel, 020 being 20% nickel, and both markings meaning 10% tin, 20% nickel. I was wondering if there was any truth to either of the stories. This block just has 010 under the timing cover.

GM 010 and GM 010/020 blocks are among the best GM production blocks

If they have the "2482" caps they are even better as they are Nodular Iron and they do weigh more than a factory 4 bolt cap IMO

IMO an 010/020 is better but an 010 is good too. Prep work is the key. Sonic check them, Fill them for race use, splayed caps for race use and oiling system mods

We like to drill the main feeds out, no larger than 5/16" as this gives more oil flow to the mains thus the rods too. You also match the main bearing feed holes

In stick applications we used to groove the block from the oil hole (main) out to about 1/4" before the bearing tang, and go about that far on the other side too, then drill the upper grooved bearing in the block with additional oiling holes, Never saw anything live better with this other than stick cars

We also match up the oil pump to the rear cap for proper oil flow.

We drill a hole through the thrust face of the block so pressurized oil lubes the friction area where a wear shim or needle bearing would go (AKA Block Saver) and it reduces friction

We also polish out the rifle lines, de-burr the main saddles to be 100% sure there is not an edge that will pinch the bearing.

If a flat tappet cam, we put a groove under each cam bearing so it sprays cool, fresh, pressurized oil on the cam/lifters. We also like to use Dura-Bond coated cam bearings, Dura-Bond is a Melling company and they use Calico for their coatings

There is a lot of work to prep a factory block for race use, if you do this on a street engine you will have a VERY DURABLE street engine. There are a few more things you would do if a full race engine

Those things I listed will help the durability, due to the oiling you should at least use a high pressure pump if you do these mods, I use high volume pumps and 7qt pans (Milodon or Moroso)

Wow, thats awesome, Thanks! What would you recommend for a good budget connecting rod/piston combo to withstand occasional drag strip use, road race abuse, and a generally heavy foot? I was thinking about a set of GM powdered metal rods like they used in the Gen-II motors, with ARP wave-loc bolts, teamed up with a factory forged crank. I was also planning on buttoning the whole bottom end up with ARP studs on the mains and a good road race oil pan.

Wow, thats awesome, Thanks! What would you recommend for a good budget connecting rod/piston combo to withstand occasional drag strip use, road race abuse, and a generally heavy foot? I was thinking about a set of GM powdered metal rods like they used in the Gen-II motors, with ARP wave-loc bolts, teamed up with a factory forged crank. I was also planning on buttoning the whole bottom end up with ARP studs on the mains and a good road race oil pan.

I would only use ARP studs if "2482" caps, Just my opinion

Scat makes a great Pro Comp I Beam Rod (nothing to do with the Company Pro Comp) for about $320.00 a set with 7/16" Bolts, Many engine builders or machine shops will sell you this rod prepped with big ends dusted and small ends (assuming they are providing pistons too)

Pistons, I would look at Probe Industries 2618 Forged or Keith Black Icon 2618 Forged, I like Probe a lot

For cranks, I would lean to Scat for an out of the box piece

Summit sells a G M 350/260 1645.95 would be a good place to start

With regards to the 010/020, it's 1% and 2%, not 10% and 20%. Nickel makes 'em harder, tin makes 'em easier to machine. If you want to know how hard a block is, talk to a guy who has bored and honed a bunch of 'em. My guy tells me that the 2482 blocks with 010/020 are a good bit harder than the later 350 blocks, he can tell a definite difference when machining 'em.
trmnatr mentions some good pieces, particularly those Scat ProComp rods and a Scat crank.