Does anyone know the freeze plug size directly above the starter on a sbc 350?

Also any tips on removing and installing with the engine in the car. I also have headers to deal with.

It looks like with a friend I may be able to remove the starter and passenger front wheel and install it with an arrangement of sockets. I would use the proper tool but I don't know how you could use it with the engine in the car.

IIRC, It should be 1-5/8"

Cool, I just removed the starter and sure enough there is a spec of rust that is weeping coolant. About a drip every 2-3 mins. I am not sure why my machine shop installed metal plugs, but it has been about 8 years since it was rebuilt.

Now the question is should I try and tackle installing a proper freeze plug, or should I install a block heater with an O-Ring? The car NEVER sees anything but sunny warm days, so the block heater will be useless, but it should be an easy installation. My builder installed one on the other side and there is not a drop. (Engine was rebuilt in Canada).

Here is the link to NAPA. It basically has an expansion wing and seals itself with an O-Ring.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=BK_6053180_0119280259&An=599001+101980+50012+2012008

There is also this option:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=BK_6004028_0062666130&An=599001+101980+50012+2012008

if you've got a direct line of site shot at it,, i'd replace it with a brass cup plug vs the rubber ones. but you need a straight on shot at it where you can hit it too.

over time,, the rubber ones harden,, than leak,, then are even more of a pain in the butt to get out. they'll get you by for a little while in a pinch though.

my "custom" freeze plug installer is either an old big ford kingpin from the steering knuckle,, or a well used mushroomed head piece of cold roll now about 3" long,, that used to be about 4 1/2-5" long.
it's the driver second from the top left,, between the two tubing drivers for knocking on crank gears.
http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/superfly_64_fly/tools/DSC01347.jpg

Do it Right and just use a brass with sealant!

Do it Right and just use a brass with sealant!

I agree with you 100%. The problem is the engine is in the car and it is really tight to try and swing a hammer. There is no direct line of sight and with the installing tool, there is no room to swing a hammer.

Other thought is just to use a short reach socket and small hammer to tap it in.

thoughts?

gonna have to hit it pretty hard with a 1lb hammer. the bigger the better. what about making an offset rod of some kind that "makes arround the frame rail" and gets back in line? shaped like below? andy
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put a block heater in it :)

well just got the old one out. The machine shop used a deep plug in lieu of a shallow, so it didn't spin when I punched in the one side.

I ended up removing my headers, and then carefully used a drill to put a small hole in the middle of the plug. I then used a seal puller and it popped right out.

The nice part is now with the headers removed there is room to swing a hammer and I will install the plug tomorrow.

thanks for the tips above.

they take the deep plug and yes some are harder to get out because of the cylinder wall behind them