I've decided to go big block with my build. What should I be lookng for when searching for a block as far as casting numbers and years go? I've always been a small block guy so any input would be great.
thanks

I've decided to go big block with my build. What should I be lookng for when searching for a block as far as casting numbers and years go? I've always been a small block guy so any input would be great.
thanks


They are all the same, the casting # are more desired for Restro guys.

2 bolt blocks are adequate for the street, If you want a 4 bolt, casting #445 is a 4 bolt main but does not have restro value, You could pic one up for $0-$350

ok thanks. I definatley will want a 4 bolt. I am planning a turbo build so the added strength will be needed. I've heard production blocks are good for around 1000hp is this true?

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If you're doing a turbo build and can't afford an aftermarket block.
I would at least get a 2 bolt and get the mains converted.
Much better material, and the splayed outer's seem to help the side loading.
Especially if you're looking at 1000 HP range. Stock mains are pretty strong,
but the metal is no where close to what they use in a good conversion kit.

Just something to think about if you're using a stocker.

Good luck.

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ok thanks. I definatley will want a 4 bolt. I am planning a turbo build so the added strength will be needed. I've heard production blocks are good for around 1000hp is this true?

just a fyi,, not all the #445 blocks are 4 bolt main. make sure and pull the pan if it's a 4 bolt you're looking for.

two of my buddys run blown alcohol boats at arround 1000hp each on 4-bolt g.m. blocks. they're living up to it so far with steel cranks and g.m. dimple 7/16" bolt rods turning 7000-7200rpms pass after pass.

the cast cranks are good to arround ~600hp with a decent damper. so,, you'll be looking for steel from what you say.

one of the older external 4-bolt appearances was to eyeball it for the big oil ports/pipe plugs on the oil filter side pad. 3/8"npt vs 1/4"npt plugs. later blocks started using an integrated oil cooler made into the filter mount/adaptor and may still be a 4-bolt with small oil ports on the side. so best to pull the pan to be sure.

the #289 casting from 73-74 or so is also a good 2 bolt casting. fairly thick where it counts.
hope it helps,
andy

Thanks guys. I'll be using all forged internals, looking to make around the 1000hp mark. Glad to hear the 4 bolt will handle that kind of power. I may go with a 2 bolt and have it converted just to be safe. I'm a long way from building a motor yet, I just want to get my game plan together first.

Thanks

1000 HP is a ton of power. What are you going to do to the car to hold that kind of power?

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Just my 2 cents. I know plenty of guys have good luck, but with 1000 HP,
I would never use a GM crank or rods. No way.
There is too many nice 4340 pieces out there for decent money.
Not cheap crap from offshore, but good quality for a decent, not cheap price.

Good luck,

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1000 HP is a ton of power. What are you going to do to the car to hold that kind of power?

Plans include: 9" rear, powerglide or th400 (not sure yet) CE weld in subframe connectors, 10pt cage. Most likley a mini tub as well.

Just my 2 cents. I know plenty of guys have good luck, but with 1000 HP,
I would never use a GM crank or rods. No way.
There is too many nice 4340 pieces out there for decent money.
Not cheap crap from offshore, but good quality for a decent, not cheap price.

I agree completly. I would never build anything over 500hp without a forged bottom end. Any suggestions as far as rotating assemblies go? Need to run around 8.5 - 9.0-1 comp.

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This is the last crank I bought for a lower HP engine like that.
They should have something that will fit your needs.

Howards, Pro Max 4340 Crank, Chev BB, 454 Main, 4.375, 6.535
Chev BB, 454 Main, 4.375" Stroke, 6.535" Rod, Double Keyways & Profiled Pins
In Stock $1,329.95


These are decent rods,

Lunati, Pro Mod Rods, Chev BB, 6.535
Lunati, Pro Mod Rods, Chev BB, 6.535", Bushed, 860g
Chev BB, 6.535", Bushed (860g)
Check for Availability $815.95


Oliver, Parabolic Beam Billet Rods, Chev BB, 6.385
Oliver, Parabolic Beam Billet Rods, Chev BB, 6.385", 813g
Chev BB, 6.385" (813g)
In Stock $1,199.95


Just be very careful with that power and a stock block.

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1000 HP is a ton of power. What are you going to do to the car to hold that kind of power?


i drive mine everywhere.....the hp it puts out is directly related to how far you push down on the go button!!!

They are all the same, the casting # are more desired for Restro guys.

They are all similar, but they're definitely not all the same.
Best to look for are early -289 castings and late -445's, they've proven to be the thickest, etc.

If you're looking to make 1000hp, I'd step up to aftermarket. There are a lot of production blocks that will hold it, but there have been a lot of folks run over their parts well below that level. Plus, it gives you room to grow.

just go and buy the 572 Gm motor you can get up to 720 hp and a warranty


Mike

just go and buy the 572 Gm motor you can get up to 720 hp and a warranty


Mike

Ya and spend $13,000 before I even get the turbo set up.....no thanks lol.

They are all similar, but they're definitely not all the same.
Best to look for are early -289 castings and late -445's, they've proven to be the thickest, etc.

If you're looking to make 1000hp, I'd step up to aftermarket. There are a lot of production blocks that will hold it, but there have been a lot of folks run over their parts well below that level. Plus, it gives you room to grow.


I don't know about that...Any references to support the theory? All my BBC books and my local machinest dont seem to think so. Casting #s are like lot #s. They didnt have seperate sands for different 454 casting blocks.

Core shift is another story.

BBC blocks are not all the same. 445 blocks are not all 4 bolt main, as some of the more knowledgeable members have already stated correctly.:rolleyes:

My builder has sonic checked a ton of big blocks. 4-bolt -289 and the late -445's consistently check the thickest, both cylinder walls and decks. I'll take his word for it, I've seen the power his stuff makes.
Sand may not know the difference, but the sand molds used to create water cavities are not all made the same. Those used to make 396 blocks leave a lot of room between cylinder bores when compared to plain vanilla 454's. I've seen early -289 blocks who's cylinders were so close together that they couldn't have been more than 1/8" wide, where the plain vanilla 454 is easily .250.
Still, 1000hp with a turbo, I'd sure consider an aftermarket. IF you build it with a production block and it holds, you're golden. IF NOT, you'll have lost every dime you put into that block, likely including your rotating assembly. I can't afford to do it twice, so I save for the good stuff the first time.

Exactly,
Having worked in a machine shop where I've bored and sleeved them, there IS a difference. When you have a production 454 block that is already .100 over and you can cut it for a sleeve and still not hit water, some are better than others.

I count at least 4 knowledgeable experienced machinists, racers, techs, etc on this post and ONE guy who is posting what he "read" or "heard".

The difference between useful information and myths...

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Yes but when I point that out, I get my post deleted.

As MyBoTy mentioned, I really think this project needs a big bore block.
Way too expensive doing this stuff twice, especially when you start off pushing your luck because of money.
I see it all the time, ton's of money on heads and giant foggers, blowers, turbos, and they stick them on stock crap.
I've personally seen 2 different buddies build blown alcohol monsters with stock blocks & cranks.
Guess what, they kept blowing up. I would rather run 13's and have a fighting chance of making it through the season.
Then run 6's, and be done for a year or 2, when it breaks, because I spent all my dough on power adders
and a cheap ass short block broke. Knowing that it would be a miracle if it stayed together.

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Exactly,
Having worked in a machine shop where I've bored and sleeved them, there IS a difference. When you have a production 454 block that is already .100 over and you can cut it for a sleeve and still not hit water, some are better than others.

I count at least 4 knowledgeable experienced machinists, racers, techs, etc on this post and ONE guy who is posting what he "read" or "heard".

The difference between useful information and myths...


What are you talking about??? I didnt say all #445 blocks are 4 bolts...#445 is a 4 bolt main casting #. :screwup: The beloved #512 block could be a 2 bolt as well...you never know until you pull the pan. Maybe the confusion is I was talking about 454?? Not all "402-427 ect??

and 2, I pulled my info from 3 BBC book I have purchased. I didnt just pull it out of my butt, why would I do that?? Since you have no credibiltly in my eyes, I will trust a published reference over you.

Looks like your arguement has more to do with how good a production block is?? So chill out

and 2, I pulled my info from 3 BBC book I have purchased. I didnt just pull it out of my butt, why would I do that?? Since you have no credibiltly in my eyes, I will trust a published reference over you.




so there ya go Jake....if you put it in a book and he bought it. then you would be credible to him :):):)

i think Jake has worked on a few more things than you. he doesn't just throw shit out there like some do.

there's just a little bit of real world experience left on here,, and the population of that is thinning. i sure hope it holds together. where did rustbucket go? aka doug?
andy

so there ya go Jake....if you put it in a book and he bought it. then you would be credible to him :):):)

i think Jake has worked on a few more things than you. he doesn't just throw shit out there like some do.


Its not about that at all. Its all attitude. You could know everything about anything, but have a bad attitude, some dont want to listen to what you got to say. I said credibility, not knowledge. We all know who has experience and knowledge thats not the issue.

so there ya go Jake....if you put it in a book and he bought it. then you would be credible to him :):):)


The board administration has found my information credible enough to permanently publish it in the form of a sticky.
I COULD write and publish a technical book about several subjects but I've been kind enough to do it for free on public forums with no direct compensation to me.

I field several phone calls a day in the shop from people with technical questions that don't relate to anything I sold or will be selling. Many times it's a competitor's product but the competitor doesn't have a technical expert to answer the phone, just a phone jockey that tries to sell you something.

I'm not worried about my credibility, I'm worried about the boards credibility. I had another member who was at my shop a couple of days ago bring up the subject that "It seems like the average IQ of the board has dropped a bunch". I agreed with him.

Then I see topics like this one, and it reminds me there ARE still knowledgeable members willing to help. mrdragster (proven racer look at the ETs), MyBoTy (I seem to recall some pretty serious combos), Louich (look at the ETs) Andy (machinist and racer), and others, but they get questioned by the one guy who seems to be on every post on the board with no real experience posting false information in this very thread (yes I did in fact read that a 445 casting is a 4 bolt main casting and I'm obviously not the only one who read it that way...).

I read in a book the other day that a pump removal tool is required to remove the pump on a TH350, right after I had removed the pump without any special tools while my pump removal tool was hanging on the board next to me....:rolleyes:

The board administration has found my information credible enough to permanently publish it in the form of a sticky.
I COULD write and publish a technical book about several subjects but I've been kind enough to do it for free on public forums with no direct compensation to me.

I field several phone calls a day in the shop from people with technical questions that don't relate to anything I sold or will be selling. Many times it's a competitor's product but the competitor doesn't have a technical expert to answer the phone, just a phone jockey that tries to sell you something.

I'm not worried about my credibility, I'm worried about the boards credibility. I had another member who was at my shop a couple of days ago bring up the subject that "It seems like the average IQ of the board has dropped a bunch". I agreed with him.

Then I see topics like this one, and it reminds me there ARE still knowledgeable members willing to help. mrdragster (proven racer look at the ETs), MyBoTy (I seem to recall some pretty serious combos), Louich (look at the ETs) Andy (machinist and racer), and others, but they get questioned by the one guy who seems to be on every post on the board with no real experience posting false information in this very thread (yes I did in fact read that a 445 casting is a 4 bolt main casting and I'm obviously not the only one who read it that way...).

I read in a book the other day that a pump removal tool is required to remove the pump on a TH350, right after I had removed the pump without any special tools while my pump removal tool was hanging on the board next to me....:rolleyes:

Amen Louich said there were still a few good guy's hanging on, on this board doesn't take long to figure out who they are and who needs their help :)

Jake don't you just love the people who phone up to pick your brain about the crate motor they just bought that they have a problem with ;)