Just traded my 454 for a 427 tall in pretty much brand new shape. Pulled the intake off and its cleaner than clean. The valve cover sticker says gm remanufactured 427. What should i do with it stroke it out?

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/_images/Callies/Lrg-BBC_l.jpg

http://www.lethalperformance.com/images/medium/15747NOS_MED.jpg

Just a suggestion;)

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/_images/Callies/Lrg-BBC_l.jpg

http://www.lethalperformance.com/images/medium/15747NOS_MED.jpg

Just a suggestion;)


ya...what he said!!!

Trade it back

Definetily crank and rods swap. Probably 4.5 or 4.358 stroke and 6.7 rods with flat top piston. Roller comp cam. This block was out of a dump truck and dude its got a humugus oil pan.


Chech out how clean it is on the inside.
http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx149/yblow_bucket/029.jpg


Check out the size of this oil pan
http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx149/yblow_bucket/030.jpg

Start saving your money for headers if you're putting it in a 2nd gen.

^ +1
And a different oil pan.... And a cowl hood.

Check I hear ya. I know the oil pans to big but the headers run into problems just because the block sits 1/2 taller?

Looks like a crate motor with that ID plate on the driver side.

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I've had a couple of these, and several buddies have used them also.
Great find for a decent bracket engine, we love them.
Don't forget, that stock crank is a nice piece, don't just give it away.

My 2 cents, use a 1/4 stroke, and 6.535 rods. Very common and usually in stock.
You have to remember, this is still a stock block, and you can't just grind as much as you want.
A 4.5 is too much, and I wouldn't push it. I never heard of a 4.358 stroke??
Why would you want some weird custom crank??
Get a nice set of 330-345 heads, and you will be pounding out some power!!

As mentioned, tall deck, especially with a raised port head will need a custom header.
Some guys take a standard set, and add some spacers, and it works fine.
I actually extended a set myself and it was a perfect fit when we were done.

Hopefully you find someone interested in the heads & crank, then it'll be a no brainer.

Good luck,

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Check I hear ya. I know the oil pans to big but the headers run into problems just because the block sits 1/2 taller?


The problem usually is that it's not just taller .400.
The problem is it's up & out, and you don't have enough room.
The headers are already tight, and that .400 on an angle is the killer.

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It's only just over 1/4"taller and ~1/4"out on either side. I've been told that Hooker 2455 will fit without problems with stock exhaust ports. Just depends on what heads you use and the shape of your body and engine mounts.

John

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I've had a couple of these, and several buddies have used them also.
Great find for a decent bracket engine, we love them.
Don't forget, that stock crank is a nice piece, don't just give it away.

My 2 cents, use a 1/4 stroke, and 6.535 rods. Very common and usually in stock.
You have to remember, this is still a stock block, and you can't just grind as much as you want.
A 4.5 is too much, and I wouldn't push it. I never heard of a 4.358 stroke??
Why would you want some weird custom crank??
Get a nice set of 330-345 heads, and you will be pounding out some power!!
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Ya its a forged crank im going to try to sell it and the heads. That stroke was a 4.375 not 4.358 it was a typo. So a 4.5 with 6.7 rods is too much for this block? Ive been looking for some rods that are set up for less clearancing on the block. It looks like theres been some factory clearancing on it already that i didnt notice on my 454's but i could be wrong.
Good luck,

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That's my 2 cents, don't push it. I built mine with a 4" stroke, because I didn't need the torque,
I had plenty of power with that. My crew chief has built several with a 1/4 stroke, and everyone was very happy.
He has a customer with a 496" & iron heads and that thing fly's. You don't need to push a small bore block that hard.
It's not like you're going to make 1500 HP anyway. I would never use a 1/2" crank, and I prefer a 1/4" over the 3/8".
I would rather have longevity & reliability over 15-30 extra HP??

I'm also the guy that uses custom pistons, so I can bore a block a little at a time.
There's no reason to automatically go 30 over, when you can go 15 or 20.
I prefer to have as much meat as possible. If you force a 1/2" crank in there, there will be a lot of grinding needed.

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I don't know much about big blocks at all. What kind of reasonably displacement can you get out of a Chevy 427 tall deck block?

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496" is the most common. You can usually go up to 505" safely, but there were a lot of casting issues in those days.
Sometimes you will get weak spots when you start getting up near 100 over.
Personally I start with the smallest bore that will clean up each hole and go up by 5 from there.

Like I mentioned in another thread, I had one that was 105 over and made ~1050 HP.
It had hundreds of 8.50-8.70 pass' on it before the GM crank broke.
They are excellent basic bracket blocks. No problems with good power when you build them right & use good parts.


I also have several of those little bottles for sale. Carbon and aluminum. I'm switching to N/A.
http://img303.imageshack.us/img303/7059/94cockpitgf8.jpg


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Can't you get 496 cubes out of a factory 454?

^^ Yes. A tall deck is just that, a taller deck. The displacement is still Bore x stroke, no matter what the deck hight. 4.25 stroke x 4.31 bore is '496'

I guess I'm wondering how it would be beneficial to get rid of a "regular deck" 454 that could get 500 cubes out of and will fit in the car with no problems regarding headers, intakes and such.

It seems like it's going to cost more money and be more of a pain in the rear to put a 500 cube "tall deck" block into the car.

I'm just trying to figure out what would be gained by using a "tall Deck" block instead of the "regular deck" block if they're both going to be around 500 cubes. I'm not trying to flame anyone. Like I said, I don't know much about big blocks. I'm just curious, that's all. :)

NYH,
consensus seems to be that tall deck CAN be more expensive to build and there are a few gotchas like the header problem mentioned, and I think something with the distributor. BUT, if you can get the thing for cheap/free it can be a very decent powerbuilding platform.

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Without going through all the engineering, ratios, loading, stress's, internal speeds ect.
We use the taller deck so you can use a long rod.
You will get better longevity with the proper ratio.
Plenty of guys use a 9.8 block for a 496", they compromise the rod ratio to make it fit.

We were discussing what to do with this block. We have had great luck with 1/4" stroke and a long rod.

The intake issue has been addressed also. My last 2 intakes were made for a standard distributor.
They got smart, and lowered it from the factory.

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There is one on ebay for $81.

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The intake issue has been addressed also. My last 2 intakes were made for a standard distributor.
They got smart, and lowered it from the factory.

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Now thats another issue is the intake. I already have a efi system to use on this motor but its for a standard block, thats fine i use spacers but the distributor is like $400 bucks. What can i do there? Have the intake machined down?

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Depends on if there is enough material I would guess.
My 1st TD I had to buy an adj collar distributor.
My 2nd TD had a crank trigger, and that intake was new, and it took a standard dist.
I've never had to investigate machining the intake for a dist, sorry.

Is there enough room to put an adj collar on the dist you have??
Maybe MSD will sell just the collar??

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Ya i was lookin at that. Im going to have to pull the gear off to see. I tried calling mallory to see if they had one for it but they were closed, ill try back tomorrow.

mrdragster1970, thanks for the explanation as to why one would use a 427 tall deck block over a standard deck 454 block. I see them for sale locally from time to time. Sometimes for really good prices. :bowtie:

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I'm not an engineer, but the longer rod sure is a lot easier on cylinder walls, rings & piston skirts.
At least in my applications. I could not have been happier with a stock block.
When they blew up, it was never the blocks fault, something else always went 1st.
When torn down for the winter, they were in excellent shape, for all the abuse I gave them.
The little bit of extra work, was well worth getting a much longer rod in there.

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Just got my parts cant wait to assemble. Check em out


http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx149/yblow_bucket/003.jpg

http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx149/yblow_bucket/004-1.jpg

http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx149/yblow_bucket/005.jpg

right on...so whats it going to be?

right on...so whats it going to be?


A 525ci. with 6.7 rods L19 bolts. I just figured theres no replacement for displacement:bowtie:

Factory block 4.310 bore straight mains and deck, deck is 10.194, didnt need any machine work at all.

no wonder those rods looked so long :)