I couldn't find the posts I read, but somewhere on here I read people's opinions of removing the reverse lockout linkage to make shifting a lot smoother. What do you lose when you remove it?

What are all of the purposes of the reverse lockout, and the pros and cons to removing this linkage on a manual trans car?

If I removed it, when I do my 4 speed swap, I'd just use the trans mounted backup light switch for my 71, so that isn't a problem.



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71 RS SS396 project in the works: B-body spindles w/1LE 12" ft discs / WS6 J65 TA 11.1" rear disc brakes, poly susp., 1.25" WS6 ft & 1" adjustable rr sway bars / 4 speed nodular case 3.42 wide ratio Super T-10 / 3.23 posi rear / 81 Z cold air induction (or L88 hood?)

here is what one member posted several months ago about the reverse lockout linkage on a 4 speed:

"That also locks the steering wheel, and allows me to remove the key."

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Chuck78:
here is what one member posted several months ago about the reverse lockout linkage on a 4 speed:

"That also locks the steering wheel, and allows me to remove the key."</font>

That is the #1 reason to keep it in place. A car feels unfinished without it if you have to manhandle the steering column into position every time you want to take your key out.

Remember that the backdrive linkage comes into play only when going into and out of reverse, so it has no effect whatsoever on shifting between forward gears.

Reverse rod on a 4 speed is a separate rod that has no effect on the forward gears as far as shift effort or smoothness.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Chuck78:
here is what one member posted several months ago about the reverse lockout linkage on a 4 speed:

"That also locks the steering wheel, and allows me to remove the key."</font>

Come on you guys....have you ever worked on 4 speed linkage??? It has NOTHING to do with locking the steering wheel.
The wheel lock and key,blah,blah, work just fine with the reverse lock-out taken off.
I have had 3 f-bodys all 4 speeds with Hurst shifters and no reverse lock out linkage hooked up. Or even on the car

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by kenny77:
Come on you guys....have you ever worked on 4 speed linkage??? It has NOTHING to do with locking the steering wheel.
The wheel lock and key,blah,blah, work just fine with the reverse lock-out taken off.
I have had 3 f-bodys all 4 speeds with Hurst shifters and no reverse lock out linkage hooked up. Or even on the car
</font>

You are mostly right, but the backdrive linkage drives the steering wheel collar preventing key removal unless the collar is in the lock position. If the backdrive rod isn't there, and the collar vibrates out of position while you are driving, you have to rotate it back into the lock position to get the key out. This is what he is talking about here, and why the backdrive linkage is nice to have.

This also turns on the backup lights when it turns the collar.

just curious.how would it make shifting better?i never saw anyone ever fight to get in reverse.but ill tell you from what i know on this since i did it.i converted from auto to 4spd.first drive no backdrive linkage hooked up and guess what key was jammed cause column turned.so i put the linkage on and guess what everything works fine.reverse lights go one and off when they should key goes in and comes out just fine.i dont really know if it made it any hrder to shift into reverse.nothing i noticed.but removing this linkage will NOT change any shifting quality in forward gears.really when you think about it would it be worth 5 minutes of your time or even a hour to make your car right???

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efi the only way to fly

will a manual trans column mounted backup light switch from a late 70's-81 camaro mount on a 71 steering column?

The Hurst switch costs $30, and bolts onto the shifter. Since the 71 auto cars have the shifter on the floor with the backup light and neutral safety switch on the shifter, when I switch to 4 speed, that might be the best bet to go with that. the wiring will already be there. Then I just need to run the wires from the neutral safety switch to install the clutch start switch.

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71 RS SS396 project in the works: B-body spindles w/1LE 12" ft discs / WS6 J65 TA 11.1" rear disc brakes, poly susp., 1.25" WS6 ft & 1" adjustable rr sway bars / 4 speed nodular case 3.42 wide ratio Super T-10 / 3.23 posi rear / 81 Z cold air induction (or L88 hood?)