I got my motor on a motor stand, just put the new cam and heads on, and now im tryin to adjust the valves. Whats the best way to do it without the motor running? This is my first motor build and the only way I know how to adjust valves is with the motor running. Thanks

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How To Adjust Valves (http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&q=adjust+valves+small+block+chevy&aq=0&aqi=g10&aql=&oq=adjust+valves&fp=d5719758e3bc2e7a)


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http://www.corvette-restoration.com/resources/technical_papers/Valve_Lash.pdf

One way I heard to adjust valves was to bring #1 up to TDC on the compression stroke and adjust both intake and exhaust. Then turn the crank in 90° increments and adjust each cylinder according to firing order.

Does this work?

First question: did you degree the cam in? Please tell me you did. If you did, then it's a simple matter of buying a timing tape that fits your harmonic balancer. Next step is to bring the #1 piston up to TDC, adjust #1. Then rotate the engine to 90, adjust #8. Follow the firing order (1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2) at every 90 degrees till you're back to zero after two rotations. I usually go through the initial adjustments twice just to be sure.

Second question: is it hydraulic or solid lifter cam? Set a hydraulic cam at 1/2 turn preload. That means that when the valves are completley closed (cam is on the base circle of the cam) the rocker arm is tightened till there is little or NO clearance between the top lifter + the pushrod + the rocker arm to the valve stem. Once the clearance is zero, then tighten the rocker arm nut 1/2 turn. It's about the same for solid lifters except you use a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve stem to adjust the clearance (which is found on the cam's spec sheet).

Assuming you have hydraulic lifters, once the engine is running, you will re-adjust the hydraulic lifters to 1/2 turn preload while the engine is running. I sell a modified valve cover I call the Adjust-A-Cover that makes this job not only very easy but also makes doing it much safer as you don't have engine oil getting on the headers = FIRE! A tall Adjust-A-Cover is $35 plus shipping. A standard height is $25 plus shipping. Or you can send me one of your valve covers that I will modifly for $25 plus shipping back to you. I modify any small block Chevy valve cover for $25 plus shipping for that matter. All of them come with directions on how to adjust small block Chevy hydraulic lifters.

Tall one that I stock:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/TallSBCAdjCoverTop.jpg

Short ones that I stock (but have a limited supply of):

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/OrangeShortCover.jpg

Center bolt cover that I modifed for a member here:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/DSC01917.jpg

Thanks for the help got the valves adjusted and the motor all together.

First question: did you degree the cam in? Please tell me you did. If you did, then it's a simple matter of buying a timing tape that fits your harmonic balancer. Next step is to bring the #1 piston up to TDC, adjust #1. Then rotate the engine to 90, adjust #8. Follow the firing order (1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2) at every 90 degrees till you're back to zero after two rotations. I usually go through the initial adjustments twice just to be sure.

Second question: is it hydraulic or solid lifter cam? Set a hydraulic cam at 1/2 turn preload. That means that when the valves are completley closed (cam is on the base circle of the cam) the rocker arm is tightened till there is little or NO clearance between the top lifter + the pushrod + the rocker arm to the valve stem. Once the clearance is zero, then tighten the rocker arm nut 1/2 turn. It's about the same for solid lifters except you use a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve stem to adjust the clearance (which is found on the cam's spec sheet).

Assuming you have hydraulic lifters, once the engine is running, you will re-adjust the hydraulic lifters to 1/2 turn preload while the engine is running. I sell a modified valve cover I call the Adjust-A-Cover that makes this job not only very easy but also makes doing it much safer as you don't have engine oil getting on the headers = FIRE! A tall Adjust-A-Cover is $35 plus shipping. A standard height is $25 plus shipping. Or you can send me one of your valve covers that I will modifly for $25 plus shipping back to you. I modify any small block Chevy valve cover for $25 plus shipping for that matter. All of them come with directions on how to adjust small block Chevy hydraulic lifters.

Tall one that I stock:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/TallSBCAdjCoverTop.jpg

Short ones that I stock (but have a limited supply of):

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/OrangeShortCover.jpg

Center bolt cover that I modifed for a member here:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/DSC01917.jpg
This is a great idea.

I use the Exhaust opening, Intake closing method and has been working great for years.

One way I heard to adjust valves was to bring #1 up to TDC on the compression stroke and adjust both intake and exhaust. Then turn the crank in 90° increments and adjust each cylinder according to firing order.

Does this work?

Yes.