I've always used a different method (that I read in Super Chevy a million years ago) but this method seems 10X easier.

Anyone see a problem with this method?

http://www.centuryperformance.com/adjusting-valve-lash-spg-149.html

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Takes too long, when there is a quicker, and 100% accurate method already.

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Really, I would figure this would be faster.

I start at TDC adjust #1 intake and Exhaust then rotate the engine 90* at a time and do them all in thier firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

^^I use this method.

I start at TDC adjust #1 intake and Exhaust then rotate the engine 90* at a time and do them all in thier firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

ditto

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Can't get much quicker than doing 4 valves at a time, and only moving the engine 3 times??
Like I said on yesterday's thread on this same subject, I've never had a problem.
Plus my way, 2 guys can work on the engine and not get in each others way, or wait to turn it over.

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MR Dragster, I did a search and could not find your method. Could you help me out. Thanks.

When I didn't know any better, I used that method. Since I degree in my cams, I mark the harmonic balancer every 90 degrees so that when I go to adjust the lifters, I start on #1 at TDC and adjust #1, move 90 degrees to the next mark and adjust #8, and so on through the firing order.

If it's a hydraulic cam, I put 1/2 turn for the initial adjustment then re-adjust them to 1/2 turn with the engine running with MY Adjust-A-Cover (that I sell tall ones for $35, standard height ones for $25 and modify your valve cover for $25 all plus shipping). All come with directions on how to adjust lifters.

Tall for $35 plus shipping:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/TallSBCAdjCoverTop.jpg

Standard $25 plus shipping:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/SBCAdjCoverTop2.jpg

Customer's center bolt cover that I modified for $25 plus shipping:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/Cardinal_03/Adjust-A-Cover/DSC01917.jpg

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It was not on a setting lash thread, that's why you couldn't find it.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178532

Once you get to TDC, it's obvious if you are at 1 or 6, and you are good to go.
Turn the engine 3 times and you're done.


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GM Manual

http://www.nastyz28.com/~copo/images/doc_adjusting_solid_lifters.jpg

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HEY, GM stole my system!!!!!!!!!!

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I use the same method as you mrdragster, any other way just doesn't make sense.. Seems like alot of wasted effort to do it any other way..

Hey I'm all for trying a something new to me.. but I have hydraulic lifters so the engine would have to be warm. I'd have to turn the engine with the spark plugs in or bump it with the starter... so is that going to be tricky getting 180* lined up? And whats the easiest way to guarantee that the 180* mark that I make on the balancer is 100% in the right spot?Seems kind of difficult to do with the balancer on the car. Be nice if my balancer already had that mark. (Kinda like a single line @ 0* and an arrow @180*)

I start at TDC adjust #1 intake and Exhaust

Confused.. That GM manual a few posts above this one says TDC should be INT 2 & 7 and EX should be 4 & 8. So, #1's INT & EX are both on the base of the lobe too?

And then 90* clockwise... #8's INT and EX will be on the base? And then 90* more then #4's INT & EX will be on the base?

Comp Cams way:

Turn the crankshaft in the direction of normal engine rotation until the exhaust pushrod of the cylinder you are adjusting begins to move upward, opening the valve. Adjust the INTAKE lash by tightening the intake rocker nut with the correct thickness feeler gauge inserted between the valve stem and the rocker tip. Tighten the rocker nut until there is a slight drag when moving the feeler gauge. Next, rotate the engine until the intake pushrod fully opens the valve and then goes half-way back down. Adjust the EXHAUST rocker nut (with correct feeler gauge) using the same procedure. Repeat for all cylinders.

http://www.compcams.com/technical/FAQ/FAQLifters.asp


Crane Cams way:

You can take the "hot" setting given to you in the catalog or cam specification card and alter it by the following amount to get a "cold" lash setting.

With iron block and iron heads, add .002"
With iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006".
With both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012".
Remember this correction adjustment is approximate and is only meant to get you close for the initial start up of the engine. After the engine is warmed up to its proper operating temperature range, you must go back and reset all the valves to the proper "hot" valve lash settings.

Setting Valve Lash on Mechanical Cams
All the valves must be set individually and only when the lifter is properly located on the base circle of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. How will you know when the valve you are adjusting is in the proper position with the lifter on the base circle of the cam? This can be accomplished by watching the movement of the valves.

1. When the engine is hot (at operating temperature) remove the valve covers and pick the cylinder that you are going to adjust.

2. Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, so the intake is the one we can now adjust.)

3. Use a feeler gauge, set to the correct valve lash, and place it between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm. Adjust until you arrive at the proper setting and lock the adjuster in place.

4. After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake valve almost closed, we are sure that the exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Use the feeler gauge and follow the procedure described before in step 3.

5. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, so move to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. In the future you may find shortcuts to this method, but it still remains the best way to do the job correctly.

http://cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

I have always felt that the IEEIIEE? method was to get the INITIAL valve lash close so that the engine could be started. It ASSUMES that the cam is a stock cam with little overlap between the intake and exaust lobes on any given cylinder set.

Personally, I prefer to do an initial preload setting on hydraulic lifters, get the engine running, then use the Adjust-A-Cover (that I've had for over 40 years) to do the FINAL 1/2 turn after the rocker arm stops clicking setting. As for solid lifters, because I degree in ALL of my cams, ESPECIALLY mechanicl lifter ones, I mark the harmonic balancer every 90 degrees (0, 90, 180, 270) which then gives me a reference point from #1 cylinder so that I can adjust each cylinder's intake and exhaust valve in the firing order as I move the crankshaft from 0 (#1), to 90 (#8), 180 (#4), 270 (#3), 0 (6), 90 (#5), 180 (#7), 270 (#2) and back to zero where I go through them AGAIN just to make sure that they are set correctly.

But that's me and the way I was taught in 1964 how to adjust them.

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I would assume the GM manual is where I learned to install & set up cams,
since that's exactly what I've been doing since '81-82. So far so good, so why change!!

If you use that system, only do the 4 valves it lists. Do not assume there are others on the base.
#1 TDC does not mean #1 valves are closed, they're not.

Another tip, I stopped bumping my stuff over many years ago.
I use a ratchet. My starter guy yelled at me for screwing up my starters by bumping them over thousands of times.
It's much easier to be precise also. I had no idea how hard it is on a starter??
Plus it makes sense, less wear & tear on the flexplate also. I just use a plain swivel ratchet with an extension.
If I can turn my stuff, anyone can turn theirs.

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/6465/crankractchet.jpg

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.[B]If you use that system, only do the 4 valves it lists. Do not assume there are others on the base.
#1 TDC does not mean #1 valves are closed, they're not

So am I reading Mwilson's and Cardinal's post incorrectly? from what I read...yhey are saying that they go to 0* TDC and then adjust the intake and exhaust on #1. And that contradicts what you are saying...unless I'm not understanding

**I'm not saying anyone is wrong...I'm just trying to understand things.**


Also, whats a good method (least hassle) of marking the balancer at 180* with it on the car? I would hate for it to be off a 1/2" and then have the valves adjusted wrong. They way I did mine was the Comp Cams way (a few posts ago). I'm just looking for an easier way.

^^ Since your balancer isn't on you could buy timing tape if they have one that shows each 90* turns you want to do.
Or take a measuring tape that a seamstress uses and wrap it around your balancer and look at what the total diameter is and make a mark at 1/2 way.

http://go.mrgasket.com/ProductImages/500/1589.jpg

I do it like this.....

#1 TDC
Intake 1 2 5 7
Exhaust 1 3 4 8

#6 TDC
Intake 3 4 6 8
Exhaust 2 5 6 7

I have always felt that the IEEIIEE? method was to get the INITIAL valve lash close so that the engine could be started. It ASSUMES that the cam is a stock cam with little overlap between the intake and exaust lobes on any given cylinder set.

Personally, I prefer to do an initial preload setting on hydraulic lifters, get the engine running, then use the Adjust-A-Cover (that I've had for over 40 years) to do the FINAL 1/2 turn after the rocker arm stops clicking setting.

But that's me and the way I was taught in 1964 how to adjust them.


^ Church.

The adjust-a-cover way. No mess, no fuss, perfect everytime. But for a lot of people that would be waaay too easy.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t110/camaropigs2000/cover.jpg

^ your talking hydraulic lifters that's good but we're talking solids here.

My engine builder uses this:

TDC #1
I - E
2 - 8
rotate 90*
1 - 4
rotate 90*
8 - 3
rotate 90*
4 - 6
rotate 90*
3 - 5
rotate 90*
6 - 7
rotate 90*
5 - 2
rotate 90*
7 - 1

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I'll go pull a valve cover tomorrow.

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No need because the GM Manual is the same as what you are doing. So I don't doubt you... I just don't see how all of these people are adjusting other cylinders at TDC and are not having trouble. Anyway.. I was doing the Comp Cams: "exhaust starts to open, adjust the intake...when the intake goes past max lift and is half way closed, adjust the exhaust" method.

COPO, no my balancer is on the car.

Mark the balancer method with a seamstress tape.
From the Chevelle board Tech Ref #17

Use the tape to measure the circumference (around the outside) of the balancer and then divide the number by four.

That gives you the 90 degree distance. Then use masking tape to position the begining of the tape at the top dead center point. Feed the tape around the balancer and use more masking tape to hold it in place. If that "90 degree distance" was 5 1/4", then you would mark on your balancer (with a felt marker) at the 5 1/4" point on the tape. Then mark at 10 1/2" (add 5 1/4"), and again at 15 3/4" (adding another 5 1/4").

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I would assume the GM manual is where I learned to install & set up cams,
since that's exactly what I've been doing since '81-82. So far so good, so why change!!

If you use that system, only do the 4 valves it lists. Do not assume there are others on the base.
#1 TDC does not mean #1 valves are closed, they're not.

Another tip, I stopped bumping my stuff over many years ago.
I use a ratchet. My starter guy yelled at me for screwing up my starters by bumping them over thousands of times.
It's much easier to be precise also. I had no idea how hard it is on a starter??
Plus it makes sense, less wear & tear on the flexplate also. I just use a plain swivel ratchet with an extension.
If I can turn my stuff, anyone can turn theirs.

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/6465/crankractchet.jpg

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I use a rachet also due to starters especially if you use those kragen ones. Dont for get to pull the spark plugs out!!!!!!

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That's what the extension for. I don't pull the plugs, and with 13-15 to 1, it takes a little umph to turn it over.

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GM Manual

http://www.nastyz28.com/~copo/images/doc_adjusting_solid_lifters.jpg
I remember adjusting mine after they were warm. I don't remember which valves each time, but I remember the half-revolution process.

I use a rachet also due to starters especially if you use those kragen ones. Dont for get to pull the spark plugs out!!!!!!

I can't..I have hydraulic lifters and so the engine need to be warm. I'm just going to keep using the same method as I mentioned. It easier to only pull one valve cover and it seems like a pain in the rear to get under the car...do all the measuring and marking on the balancer. But... when I do a new cam...I'm DEFINITELY marking the balancer while I have everything removed.