Can I use this type of paint for the metal part of the interior dash n cowl area.
Will it hold up to the sun?? I know its awesome stuff for interior trim piece's.
Just not sure how it holds up to UV rays from the sun. I was gonna sand the dash down real good, then spray a 2 part metal etching primer then paint with SEM paint.

OR, do I really need a single stage paint???

PLEASE HELP. Thanks :cool:

I also forget to say Its the spray can type! :cool:

yes you can do all that with sem, i used the sem on all the metal and plastic parts, the front metal dash area just scuff with a scotchbrite over the orignal paint so it has no shine and just go rite over it with the sem. iv personally done this in 3 cars and they look just like new and as good as the day they were done.

Yup, done several. No issues!

Been using it since 1993 with no bad issues.

Just don't spray it too thick of a coat in one shot on parts with texture or you wash it out. Just do a few light coats.

Just make sure the temp is 70 degrees or above, I never do my parts until the spring or summer when the weather is a constant 65-75 degrees or above and the sun is shining. I've tried doing it in the winter in my heated shop and the results aren't the same.

Stick your recoloring to hard abs plastic and heavy vinyl like dashboards, consoles, and plastic trim like kickpanels and so forth. I would never try to totally change colors on carpet, fabrics (sunvisors), seats, or seatbelts.

The results just aren't the same and it looks bad, I don't care what anyone says. Carpet is cheap and you can find seatbelts, sunvisors, and seat covers in repro.

I would rather rock a worn out red interior with a good cleaning than one that has be spray bombed in black. You can tell a hack job when you see it.

Also be aware of a plastic that is made of the same slick stuff bleach bottles are made of, you'll know it when you see it. The third gen F-body used this mostly in these cars, especially the kickpanels and rear trim. The sem color coat won't stick properly unless you give it a good sanding and use a good adhesion promoter like Bull Dog. Even then it can scratch or rub off, but a little harder to do.....but other vinyls and plastics it will be rock hard and you have to "wear" it off.

1976CamaroGuy is correct in regards to the "slick" plastic parts requiring some sanding to get SEM to adhere. However, with any plastic parts, there is a way to prep them to get the dye to adhere and stay.

Been using SEM for over 20 years and I've found the best way to ensure a long lasting dye job is the cleaning and prep, just like painting your car!

IF you can remove the parts and scrub them clean with a detergent, degreasing cleaner like Castrol Super Clean, Simple Green or even Ajax / Comet / Borax, you will need to use a good scrub brush and a 3M Scotchbrite pad to completly get into the texture and crannies. Another and better way to go is use TSP to clean the parts. This will help strip off any residues, oils and free resins.

After the parts are clean and dried, wipe down everything with a wax and grease remover like PPG's DX330 before spraying the dye.

As stated before, spray in light coats and take your time, Too heavy a coat will build up and you will loose the "grain and texture".

1976CamaroGuy is correct in regards to the "slick" plastic parts requiring some sanding to get SEM to adhere. However, with any plastic parts, there is a way to prep them to get the dye to adhere and stay.

Been using SEM for over 20 years and I've found the best way to ensure a long lasting dye job is the cleaning and prep, just like painting your car!

IF you can remove the parts and scrub them clean with a detergent, degreasing cleaner like Castrol Super Clean, Simple Green or even Ajax / Comet / Borax, you will need to use a good scrub brush and a 3M Scotchbrite pad to completly get into the texture and crannies. Another and better way to go is use TSP to clean the parts. This will help strip off any residues, oils and free resins.

After the parts are clean and dried, wipe down everything with a wax and grease remover like PPG's DX330 before spraying the dye.

As stated before, spray in light coats and take your time, Too heavy a coat will build up and you will loose the "grain and texture".

This is awesome info:cool: ......

But remember I am painting the metal part of the dash Nothing plastic.
Its the metal part that the window and speaker vent sit on.

Is the SEM good for that?? will it have problems with UV rays ???


Sorry 3SLO5 told me already LOL. thanks everyone..

This is awesome info:cool: ......

But remember I am painting the metal part of the dash Nothing plastic.
Its the metal part that the window and speaker vent sit on.

Is the SEM good for that?? will it have problems with UV rays ???


Sorry 3SLO5 told me already LOL. thanks everyone..

You'll have no problem with the metal dash surface.

Just a nice scuff with a 3M scotchbrite pad and a wipe down with the wax and grease remover and you'll be good to go!

SEM had a UV Clear a few years back that did add a light sheen but not a super gloss. Haven't seen it for some time but I never used it and never had any problems using just the color on daily drivers.

You'll have no problem with the metal dash surface.

Just a nice scuff with a 3M scotchbrite pad and a wipe down with the wax and grease remover and you'll be good to go!

SEM had a UV Clear a few years back that did add a light sheen but not a super gloss. Haven't seen it for some time but I never used it and never had any problems using just the color on daily drivers.

AWSOME thank you ;)