i have have always heard weldin with gas is better why if electric holds it just as good

Electric does the job with less heat transfer and can be concentrated in in smaller or lighter jobs easier as well as heavier materials.

Let's summon the Welding God John Wright for this topic...

also, keep in mind that 'welding with gas' is often used to refer to MIG (v/s not with gas, flux core), not oxy-fuel welding.

I know very few places where oxy-fuel would be the preferred method, and none of them are on a car. Also, 'better' refers as much or more to ease of use, cost, and other things than to strength of the finished product.

There's no problem with the strength of an oxy-fuel weld, but it has plenty of other drawbacks that make a MIG a better choice for auto work.

cast iron maifolds,in making split for dules old school ,one place where you wont to heat all up good to weld or braze,i thank

Torch welding on body steel is not the way to go. I ruined a 56 Chev years ago with this, got real seasick looking down the sides when I got it in primer.

I tried to oxy actelene 'braze' a Moroso pick up recently on to a Melling pump as braze was what Moroso recommended to do and I just could'nt get enough heat into the pump bit for the braze to flow and thought I had buggered up the pump (I did'nt) so I fired up my mig welder and it was done perfectly in seconds, horses for courses I like to have both in my workshop. Gas welding can be good if what you are welding is not perfectly clean (eg chassis) and of course you can only braze with gas as far as I am aware.

Brazing is not a very strong weld and as said, you can warp a body panel when using this method.

MIG, if done properly (stitch a little at a time) works the best because of the gas tends to cool the weld (just enough) but you can still warp the panel if you hurry it too much.

Cardinal's don't do body work. But in a pinch, I attempt it. I even went so far as to buy a two part epoxy gun (looks like a caulking gun on steroids) to "glue" a set of rocker panels on a Chevy Corsica! It lasted over four years too! LOL! Gave the car to a young lady that was working three jobs, single mom, and going to college at the same time.

miller has a welder out that is 350p 200/230/460 single or 3 phase. i believe? it is sapposed to be programable pulse weld, i havent tried the pulse part but the thing is a good wire welder. its not cheap $ 3756. any ways its good for thin guage metal check it out. your supposed to be able to weldsheet metl with no waves or distortion.
mike

cast iron maifolds,in making split for dules old school ,one place where you wont to heat all up good to weld or braze,i thank

i weld cast pulleys at work. nickel rod dose the trick. pre heat with rosebud, weld , then heat the same amount and cover it with bucket or sand to keep it from cooling to quickly. the pulleys that i weld go on cotton gin stuff. if you want to weld with wire you have to get it just under glowing (atleast 250 on the amps) weld and reheat, cover and let it cool.
i prefer using stick, theres not as much heat in it, its also more fogivng on how clean. very little grinding.
mike

miller has a welder out that is 350p 200/230/460 single or 3 phase. i believe? it is sapposed to be programable pulse weld, i havent tried the pulse part but the thing is a good wire welder. its not cheap $ 3756. any ways its good for thin guage metal check it out. your supposed to be able to weldsheet metl with no waves or distortion.
mike

Good lord, near 4 grand for a welder? if he's a pro that's 1 thing but a hobbyist isn't going to spring for that much welder for tinkering around on a hotrod.

I spent $500 on a used 110V Miller MIG... welder, cart, mask, tank and regulator.

It works great for sheet metal and exhaust systems!
I haven't tried to weld anything heavier than exhaust pipe so I haven't found its limitations yet.