Has anyone had any luck double flaring stainless steel lines

Since no else will speak up, what the heck is double flaring?

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70 Z28
6 speed

There's not going to be any difference in the difficulty of doing a single or double flare on stainless steel (all your doing is a 2nd bend with the flanged tip anyways). The problem is finding a tool that will do any flaring on stainless steel, period.

I destroyed 2 cheapo Made in China flaring tools on 5/16" x .0625" thick SS tubing- and bent the rotation arm of a rather pricey made-in-America UAP-purchased flaring tool trying it- guess I should've used thinner tubing or a hydraulic press (ended up using regular mild steel- this was for transmission cooling lines). If I had to do this again- I would manufacture my own holding fixture and buy the appropriate flaring tips and put in in a vertical hydraulic press- although I'm sure such a fixture could be purchased out there somewhere (but I'm cheap).

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Eric:

There's not going to be any difference in the difficulty of doing a single or double flare on stainless steel (all your doing is a 2nd bend with the flanged tip anyways). The problem is finding a tool that will do any flaring on stainless steel, period.

I destroyed 2 cheapo Made in China flaring tools on 5/16" x .0625" thick SS tubing- and bent the rotation arm of a rather pricey made-in-America UAP-purchased flaring tool trying it- guess I should've used thinner tubing or a hydraulic press (ended up using regular mild steel- this was for transmission cooling lines). If I had to do this again- I would manufacture my own holding fixture and buy the appropriate flaring tips and put in in a vertical hydraulic press- although I'm sure such a fixture could be purchased out there somewhere (but I'm cheap).</font>

I was never told about the difficulties I would have, so I went with stainless for my lines, and proceeded to wrap the handle of my flaring tool completely around the tool, just like Eric did. Bending the line with a tubing bender is not fun, either. I had a chance to work with some Moroso aluminum line and that was a million times better. I am actually considering ripping out my stainless work and putting in the aluminum, since it can be countoured so much easiser
to the bottom of the car.

Bending stainless is easy with a quality tool. I have never cared much for flaring - always seemed like a cheap way to attach tubing. I use Swagelok fittings on everything possible. 100% leakproof and good to at least 3000 psi (much higher on small diameter stuff). Once you plumb something with stainless and Swagelock fittings, it'll be there until your grandchildren have grandchildren.

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70 Z28
6 speed

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Goat:
Bending stainless is easy with a quality tool. I have never cared much for flaring - always seemed like a cheap way to attach tubing. I use Swagelok fittings on everything possible. 100% leakproof and good to at least 3000 psi (much higher on small diameter stuff). Once you plumb something with stainless and Swagelock fittings, it'll be there until your grandchildren have grandchildren.

</font>

Yeah, I used the hand bending tool from summit, which doesn't even have padded handles. The 3/16 tube wasn't too bad, but the 3/8 was tough.

WildBilly-
Read up on why people don't like aluminum fuel line on street cars, there is no way in hell I'd ever use it for a brake line. Unless it is secured very well, it will become brittle and crack.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Cam73:
WildBilly-
Read up on why people don't like aluminum fuel line on street cars, there is no way in hell I'd ever use it for a brake line. Unless it is secured very well, it will become brittle and crack.</font>

Thanks for lookin out http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif, but I already know. I wasn't going to do it on my brake lines, I would use aluminum for my fuel lines on my race car. Mostly due to the fact that aluminum reacts much differently to deflection and fatigue than steel. Same reason why aluminum connecting rods are not recommended for street use.

[This message has been edited by WildBillyT (edited November 06, 2003).]

Do not double flare Stainless!!!!Stainless only needs a single flare,if you double flare it it will crack and brake where your second flare is.

I was thinking of doing this myself and running soem 1/2 inch fuel lines up and back..

anyone know where I can buy a 1/2 inch tubing bender ? No-one carries them in Fla.. Tried MAC and Sears...

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355, Solid Lifter 278/288 .490 cam, Sportsmen II heads, Edel. Perf. RPM, Edel 750, HEI, TH-400 w/2000 stall, 3.73 diff w/ Powertrax locker. 13.8 @ 101 and dropping

try grangers it is a supply comp. that a lot of the ind. uses to get all typs of tools and stuff for
mechan

You can find them on ebay if you run a search on Ridgid. They make the absolute best tubing benders