If I don't take my car out for a spin for 3 weeks lets say, and when I go to start it, the oil light is on for a few cranks before it starts running. By the time I get the carb to fire up the light is out.
I'm using Joe Gibbs 10w-30 Hot Rod oil http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/hotrod/index.html that has lots of ZDDP.

Do I have enough protection on the cam and lifters until the oil light goes out?
I really don't think guys in the same vote as myself pull their distributor and prime their engine with a priming tool before they go for a cruise. That would be a pain.
With the cold weather here and snow at times I don't get it out unless the roads are dry without salt on them and that usually takes a ran day to do that. I always like taking it out so there's fresh gas in the carb bowls and the fluids get a chance to get rid of moisture.

What do you guys do?

I'd take the bulb out ;)

Do you have an oil pressure gauge ? That's what I go off of. Within 5 seconds of cranking I'm showing pressure even if the engine isn't 'started'. I'm running straight 30Wt in my 454....

You can always pull the coil wire and then turn the engine over a few times to make sure the oil has circulated but then again look at the people in your cold climate that go out and spin their motors when it is -20. Depending on where your oil light is installed it may take a few seconds for the cold oil to circulate it. If you had a gauge you would probably see how much pressure you have when the engine is cranking. Sometimes is take a few seconds for my oil guage to start registering. As long as you have the correct amount of oil in your pan I would not be too concerned or you can always put some 5-w30 in it for the winter months.

I'd take the bulb out ;)

Do you have an oil pressure gauge ? That's what I go off of. Within 5 seconds of cranking I'm showing pressure even if the engine isn't 'started'. I'm running straight 30Wt in my 454....

Yup, I have a mechanical water temp, oil pressure and vacuum gauge. Never thought to look there while starting it.....thx. I'll look at
it next time. By the time I get the carb to fire up the light is out.

Not worth losing sleep over.

You can always pull the coil wire and then turn the engine over a few times to make sure the oil has circulated but then again look at the people in your cold climate that go out and spin their motors when it is -20. Depending on where your oil light is installed it may take a few seconds for the cold oil to circulate it. If you had a gauge you would probably see how much pressure you have when the engine is cranking. Sometimes is take a few seconds for my oil guage to start registering. As long as you have the correct amount of oil in your pan I would not be too concerned or you can always put some 5-w30 in it for the winter months.

By the time the engine starts the light was out.

I just started mine today after work, been sitting for the past 3-4 weeks, still have the 20w50 in it, just pulled the fuel pump fuse and let it crank for a bit and oil presure on gauge went up very quickly, put fuse in pump the G/P had a little rock & roll for a moment, let it run for 1/2 hour and when it was good and warm with the fans running I went around the the block, ran good with the cool air, put it back in the garage, next week we may have snow so I just let it sit in the driveway and run for 1/2 hour, tranny and rear are ok to sit over the winter, if you worry about it just put it on jack stands and let them turn

Crank the engine for a few seconds without applying any gas pedal.
The rotating parts still have a coating of oil and will be fine, what you are doing is refilling the oil galleries which have drained back over time.
Then Try starting it as normal, the idiot light should go out as normal.

I got a reply from Joe Gibbs:
The Hot Rod oil has additives that stay on the camshaft and lifters that for an indefinite amount of time, so even if your oil light is on for a few seconds, you are protected against "dry starts". This applies even if your car sat for 3 months or more.

The roads were dry yesterday so I went for a short drive. Today is dry too. I'll take it out today as well.

I wouldn't fret about it, if you broke the cam in properly etc. pfffffft, no worries! I ran/run a cam from general kinetics for the last 11 yrs. and when I pulled it last yr. for a minor build up, it was like brand new.....(ran straight 30 wt. for yrs. now 20 -50) and it was mint! And mine sat/sits weeks at a time during the winter in a non-heated garage b4 I started it....and shtuff was fine!(garage heated now, which is waaaay better) but, no worries! Things will be fine! Oh and when you think the roads have no salt on them on dry days, think again! I never take her out in the winter, ever! Even trace amounts of salt/ moisture, will make the old girl rot, imho! Salt is a killer!

on our dirt track cars we crank the engine over until the oil pressure reads 40psi then hit the magneto switch or ignition switch what ever race car we're racing that night .cranking the engine over for 10-15 seconds usually will give us 40 psi oil pressure

on our dirt track cars we crank the engine over until the oil pressure reads 40psi then hit the magneto switch or ignition switch what ever race car we're racing that night .cranking the engine over for 10-15 seconds usually will give us 40 psi oil pressure

That's the problem, you don't want to be cranking when the oil is mostly in the pan. That's where you get dry starts unless you have lots of ZDDP in the oil and it'll have the protection at the cam and lifters as JBR said.

Not worth losing sleep over.

Pretty much sums it up.....;)

Thx guys, I was just worried about my new solid cam I replaced in July.