Hey all,
*disclaimer*
I read the sticky :)

So my teacher in autoshop told us that as a final project we could rebuild/modify an engine or related pieces and do a report on it.

What better chance to modify my vortecs? The have a full machine shop.

Since I'm on a tight budget, my mom is giving me $250 to do it because its for school. Everything over that I'm paying for.

Also, If I run guideplates, my teacher told me I had to run forged pushrods and ditch the OEM self aligning rockers. Is this true? Or should I just do screw in studs and no guide plates?

So heres what I have:
-062 vortec heads, bone stock
-bone stock L31 shortblock
-Havent decided on intake yet, most likely the pro-products vortec one for 100 bucks
-Havent decided on carburetor yet, most likely a JET or SMI qjet (dad's xmas present)
-1 5/8" summit long tube headers
-Havent decided on a converter yet (anyone recommend one cheap?)
-Probably am going to rebuilt my current TH350
-3.08 posi rear

Since Im doing all this work to my heads, I found this cam that will work with OEM lifters for 149.99
Elgin E1135
hev 305-350 ('87-'94 w/OE roller lifters)
Duration @ .050": 230/230
Adv. Duration: 306/306
Lift: .480/.480
Lobe Center: 108
2500-5800, Moderate idle, Street/Strip

My plan so far for the heads are:
-Machine for screw in studs and guide plates
-Machine valve guide bosses down
-Lightly touch up exhaust ports
-lightly touch up combustion chamber
-lap or machine valves based on condition

The parts list I came out with is:
-Cam -
-howards Z/28 springs
- Seat Press.: 115@1.700
Open Press.: 300@1.250
-viton valve seals 11/32"
-1010 steel 7degree retainers
-Forged locks
-ARP studs
-cloyes double roller timing set

Total price: $260

If I were to go with guide plates, it would add:
-guide plates
-forged pushrods
-Long slot roller tip rockers

New price: $406

All parts from: www.competitionproducts.com

Well, sorry for the long post, but whats your input on all this?
Thanks guys :) :)

Guide plates are not necessary if you run self-aligning rockers. For what you're doing, the stock stamped rockers should be fine. Also, I would select a split pattern cam with at least ten more degrees duration on the exhaust side instead of what you have listed. Unless you want to machine the seats, you may just be able to ghetto grind the retainers for the extra clearance since the lift is only .480" on the cam you've selected. Also, I believe Midwest Motorsports sells a shoulder-less rocker stud for cheap as an alternative to the ARP. I've used them on all my Vortec builds. Save the money and buy some spring seat locators to keep the higher pressure springs from digging into the head. Everything else sounds OK.

thanks for the quick response.
Im am still looking at cams at the moment, trying to keep it under $200, 150 is comfortable.

I did read about the "ghetto grind", and would this work if I used different springs such as the ones I thought of? I read I would have to ditch the inner dampener.

So If I did the screw in studs, the ghetto grind, spring seat locators and kept the stock self aligning rockers would this all be ok for .500 or less valve lift? I would still record retainer to guide clearance.

screw in studs are not usually needed on vortec heads with a hyd cam , the factory studs hold up pretty well. The getto grind is not something I would recomend ( although guys here seem to get away with it) The correct way would be to cut the guides down which will get you the clearance you need AND give you a much wider spring selection. The guide cutting tool is under 50 dollars and your school shop may already have one.

Performance wise, your time and money will be best spent doing a nice bowl blend / cleanup on both the intake and exhaust
( the exhaust flow will really wake up. ) then do a quality multi angle valve job. The self aligning rockers will work fine. If you decide on 1.6 ratio rockers then you will need to clearance the pushrod holes ( a die grinder works fine for that.

Doug

Like what was said above, the screw in studs and self aligning rockers will work fine for what you have.

I have the same 062 Vortecs with Comp 986 springs. I'm good for .525 lift. (I run a ZZ4 roller cam). I also run OEM type lifters (Sealed Power replacements). Don't spend money on things that aren't needed. You won't need spring cups as long as you use a hardened shim, which you'll need anyway.

Comp 986-16 Springs 89.88
retainers 740-16 54.95
locks 611-16 22.88
167.71

Maybe upgrade to a slightly better pushrod. You can also save some $$ by finding a GM performance cam. Like a crate motor pull out or something. They can be found for around 75-125.

Doug is right about machining the seats to be the "right" way to do it, but seeing how you're on a budget, buying the tools might be a bit costly. I actually loan out the tools to do the machining to members of this forum for the cost of shipping. If you're interested I'll get in touch with whoever has them right now (I've lost track!) to send them to you.

What CR is the L-31 engine? And w/ what combustion sized heads?

I ask b/c that cam really need's at least 12 to 1 to run it's best if it indeed a 306 advertised duration cam!

I figure cams this way.

250 = 8 to 1 CR.;

260 = 9 to 1;

265 = 9.5 to 1 CR.;

270 = 10 to 1;

280 = 10.25 to 1;

285 = 10.5 to 1;

290 = 11 to 1; and

300 = 12 to 1!!

And I'm not all that far off!!

pdq67

PS., and I have a TRW # TP-146 hy-cam in the garage that's something like 304 or 6(?)/246, 108/108, .433" lift.

You can get retainer keepers from Crane that increase the installed height by .05". It gives you the extra room you might need. Also, since you want to work the heads....pocket port the ridge underneath the seats, smooth the short-side radius, flatten the port floor slightly, teardrop the guide bosses, and reprofile and polish the valves. ( back cut the valves and polish the back of the valve and lower stem. I swirl-polished them on a bench belt sander with a fine belt. Worked great. I made a wood fixture that allowed me to hold the valve at the correct angle to the sanding belt, and then spun thevalve by hand to get the swirl pattern. Cost $6. GHETTO machine work!

The plus .050" retainers might rub on the self aligning rockers, ( you would have to trial fit it to be sure it didnt rub. and it lowers the spring pressure unless you shim them. Cutting the guides down gives you the added clearance and the narrower guide/ seal combo lets you run a spring with a damper (which most springs will have) there is a huge selection of springs available once the guides are cut.

my .02 cents
Doug