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View Full Version : How Much Horse Power Is My 454 Making??


mike shull
12-01-2008, 12:11:19 AM
Hey guys, I was just sitting here wondering about it so I figured I would ask.
I bought a 454 thats out of an 86' 3/4 ton pick-up, its a 2 bolt main.
I was wondering if anyone would have a educated guess as to what the hp, and torque numbers would be. I have a 750 holley carb, 1 5/8" dynomax ceramic coated headers, a flat tappet energizer crane cam- 284dur., 440lift, crane cam lifters, and springs, edelbrock performer alum intake,stock oval open chamber heads. And i have the march serpentine pulley conversion kit thats the horse power series (supposed to free up like 25 extra hp). 2500 stall converter, mechanical fuel pump,and water pump
I have no clue what would even be a close guess. I know its not going to be a real powerful motor by any means.

thanks guys,
mike

doc221978
12-01-2008, 06:58:23 AM
I don't like guessing cause there are just to many variables, but there is one thing I can say...... it should have more then enough torque to put a smile on your face. That engine would be good for stoplight to stoplight against some ricers and stangs.

theflash
12-01-2008, 07:03:13 AM
325-350hp

jdove
12-01-2008, 07:22:16 AM
325-350hp

^^Yep, without all the particulars of course.

A few easy upgrades and you'll be bangin 4 hundie easy IMO.

Another cam, bigger headers and stall and you're in IMO.

Oh, what gears are in the rear?

theflash
12-01-2008, 08:34:49 AM
The big killer is the low compression, and there isn't much you can do to improve hp other than smaller heads or domed pistons.

mike shull
12-01-2008, 12:27:33 PM
I just put in 3.42's in the rear end. And I am planning on running a th350 tranny with a shift kit. Pretty basic set-up. Just gonna be a weekend car when i am done with it, I figure that I will leave the motor the way it is for now and finish the rest of the car and then when I am done with the car and getting bored then I might work on making some power.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr344/mikeshull/SDC10771.jpg

thanks,
mike

Damon
12-01-2008, 12:48:51 PM
Peanut port (truck) ovals or earlier full sized ovals? Peanuts aren't as bad as some think, but not really well suited to "performance" cams.

I'm guessing this is your cam:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D10306&autoview=sku

If so, it's not a bad match, even with Peanut Port ovals, but would probably work better with full sized ovals.

Agreed with above- compression ratio is the killer. With stock pistons and open chamber heads you're at a rather dismal 8:1 compression ratio. Hard to make that work well with any kind of N/A performance setup. Domed slugs are honestly the cheapest way to fix this, unless you can get your hands on some early closed chamber heads (for cheap and in good condition).

FYI- All aftermarket heads on the market use chambers that are basically updated versions of GM's "open chamber" design (Except Edelbrocks which are semi-open). Open chambers have the potential for more flow due to reduced valve shrouding, but then you have the low compression ratio issue to deal with. Just thought I'd toss that out in case you were considering aftermarket heads as a future upgrade. That's when biting the bullet for domed slugs right up front might make more sense both now and in the future.

BTW- turn your tranny dipstick around 180*. That way the end of it will be in the engine bay when you drop the body on instead of poking up through the pass. side floorboard! ;)

mike shull
12-01-2008, 01:04:55 PM
Hey Damon, Thanks for your response. What would be a good choice for domed pistons?? What would I be looking for and how much would those run? Also what would be a good set of alum heads to run?
"Domed slugs are honestly the cheapest way to fix this, unless you can get your hands on some early closed chamber heads (for cheap and in good condition)."

Thanks alot,
mike

Damon
12-01-2008, 01:26:47 PM
Well, what kind of budget are you talking about? For a cheap and easy compression upgrade you could pick up a set of cast or hypereutectic pistons with moderate domes on them for about $250-275. If you're opening up the motor for ANY reason (like it needs to be freshened up anyay), it just makes sense to swap out the stock slugs for something that will give more reasonable compression. Here's a set I grabbed at random off of Summit's site that even includes rings. It would get your compression up a little closer to 9:1 with open chamber heads:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW%2D8KH426CP40&autoview=sku

Now, if you're interested in aftermarket aluminum heads then you're obviously talking about a MUCH larger budget. New aluminum heads for a big block are up around $2K for a decent set. (I paid about $2200 for my AFRs a couple years ago). And if that's the case you're probably going to want a good set of forged pistons in preparation for really leaning hard on that engine, plus some thinking about whether your current cam is really what you would want for such a combo. We're talking about the "snowball effect" that happens to many buildup projects.

So, what's the plan and what's the budget? Gotta narrow the discussion a bit or we will end up with suggestions all over the map.

Ryan 79
12-01-2008, 07:54:10 PM
Hey Damon, Thanks for your response. What would be a good choice for domed pistons?? What would I be looking for and how much would those run? Also what would be a good set of alum heads to run?
"Domed slugs are honestly the cheapest way to fix this, unless you can get your hands on some early closed chamber heads (for cheap and in good condition)."

Thanks alot,
mike

AS a fellow BBC owner, SAVE YOUR MONEY, and put it in SUSPENSION.

I've got a 9.6 to 1 461 with all NEW suspension, XE268 cam, a 700R4, 3.73 posi, and BFG G Force sports on the back, which is about the stickiest tire I can buy for my odd rim size, the limiting factor when it comes to actual speed isn't horsepower, its traction.

Of which I STILL have none.

I've got to change rear springs, as mine are just too stiff. I have NO wheelhop, so therefore no traction device is going to help. And my truck has sucked up all of my car money this year.:(

Upside is I have a BBC that I can start up, drive literally any distance I want(hopefully its sunny, it sucks to drive in the rain), that runs like a raped ape, and gets 15 to 16 MPG.

Drive what you have, get it to where you can put what you have to the ground, and THEN go back and upgrade the motor.

mike shull
12-02-2008, 08:29:39 PM
Ryan 79- Thanks for the advise. I bought all new suspension, but nothing crazy or special. I bought everything before I knew that I was getting a big block. For the fronts I bought 3 way adjustable shocks, moog springs, all moog steering components (centerlink,tie rods, ect.), with all energy suspension bushings front and back. And for the rear I just got Hotchkis leaf springs. and 3 way adjustable shocks. Its not gonna be a corner carver or anything close but should make it ride a little nicer.

Damon - I never stopped to think about a budget i guess. I was thinkin the motor was done for now, just thinkin about once I get the car done. I really dont have a budget for anything on the car, I just kinda look at it as if I need it, I try to get it. But later when I get the car done and want to start messing around with the motor some more, wouldnt it cost more for pistons then to get heads?? Because I wouldnt want to try to put new pistons in myself. So I would have to have a shop do that.
What about my cam, wouldnt that cam be good with heads, and pistons?? Is there something that stands out about the cam that wouldnt make it good??

Sorry for the long post,
thanks,
mike