this 80z28 was once owned by myself then sold to my neighbor then sat for 6 years then i bought it back.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_0789.jpg
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this car isnt fast enough so its getting new heads,cam and intake its also painted orange and i hate chevy orange on anything that it didnt come in orignally. i just got it passed through state inspection so it got the engine pulled today. the interior is also put together but i still have to shampoo the seats.the whole engine bay will also get cleaned and deskummed and repainted.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4403.jpg
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Kevin, its going to look good. Are you going to put the stripes back on it?

yea this cars going to look stock, after i get it painted ill put the stripes back on. i have enough modified camaros.one looking factory would be cool.

got the engine on the stand and the new cam is installed i cleaned all the old paint off the block with brake clean and a small wire brush, i should get the engine put back together and painted in the next few days. the engine is a 2 bolt cast crank with .30 over forged flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs, the leakdown test came out fine before the old heads were pulled so the new patriot vortec heads will go on with a performer rpm intake and steal shim .015 steal shim felpro headgasket and that will give me 10 to 1 compression for the lunati voodoo 60103 cam. i also removed all the edelbrock logos from the intake so it looks more factory.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4417.jpg
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Those Patriot "Vortecs" use the old-style intake bolt pattern?

Those Patriot "Vortecs" use the old-style intake bolt pattern?
yup they are actually made more for the old style intake but it accepts the vortec intake also.

yup they are actually made more for the old style intake but it accepts the vortec intake also.

Do they take the old-school valve covers too? And what's a price on em?

Do they take the old-school valve covers too? And what's a price on em?
yup they also accept the old school valve covers as well as centerbolt. they were 650 for the pair shipped from jegs.

Wow, that's CHEAP. Have any flowbench numbers? I love my Vortecs, but aluminum weight savings and the perimeter bolt valve covers make these pretty tempting.

I should have done my intake like that. I could'nt bring myself to grind down or even paint over "made in the usa" on it though. When you look into the engine compartment it is all corporate blue and that stamp stands out.

I should have done my intake like that. I could'nt bring myself to grind down or even paint over "made in the usa" on it though. When you look into the engine compartment it is all corporate blue and that stamp stands out.
no stamp i took that off also.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4431.jpg

Wow, that's CHEAP. Have any flowbench numbers? I love my Vortecs, but aluminum weight savings and the perimeter bolt valve covers make these pretty tempting.
bad news woody there cast iron not aluminum. i bought em because there cheap and it was a bolt on replacement, anything was better than the mismatched heads that were on the engine to begin with, since the bottom end was still good im putting these on, if i were building and engine from scratch these would not be my fisrt choice.
https://www.patriot-performance.com/xcart/product.php?productid=206&cat=76&page=1

Hey Kev!

I'm curious about the valve covers in the first couple of pics!
Are those a cast or stamped copy of the factory style???

there stamped steel they were only used on camaros and firebirds in 85-1986 with tpi, carbed cars got the regular stamped covers and in 87 they switched to centerbolt covers.

bad news woody there cast iron not aluminum. i bought em because there cheap and it was a bolt on replacement, anything was better than the mismatched heads that were on the engine to begin with, since the bottom end was still good im putting these on, if i were building and engine from scratch these would not be my fisrt choice.
https://www.patriot-performance.com/xcart/product.php?productid=206&cat=76&page=1

Ohhhhh ok, I guess I was assuming all the Patriot heads were aluminum. They should run really well with your setup. I love my Vortecs, just wish they weren't quite as heavy, and I'd love to throw on a set of these:
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/GM_Valve_Covers/images/10185064.12480127.jpg

woody, those are the valve covers im gonna get for the blue car i got if i ever get it done. Those are my favorite valve covers ever they just look bad ass and when you pop the hood and see those it screams performance i just hate centerbolt covers yes they never leak and are a far better engineering design but theres just no selection you get stock or polished with flames or whatever crap someone engraves on the top.

Dont Those Covers Cost Like 250 Bucks ?

Dont Those Covers Cost Like 250 Bucks ?
yes they do and there worth every penny, when you see them under the hood you know there was no penny pinching going on during the restore. iv never seen a crap car wearing those valve covers.

They are freakin awesome. You can get adapters for center bolt to perimeter bolt, but thats another place for a leak to form.

I really like your cam and cylinder head combo you chose. Looks like you did your homework on that. That motor ought to scream.

I really like your cam and cylinder head combo you chose. Looks like you did your homework on that. That motor ought to scream.
My brother has a goodwrench 350 with vortecs and a compcam extreme energy 268 and he disliked the grind, the lunati is a better grind and i just happened to step in poop when i took the old heads off and found out that the pistons would give me better compression at 10:1 instead of his 9.3 . i figured i would give the lunati a go and see what happened.in my case i lucked out and everything will work very well together.

Got some work done tonite after work,i went corporate. The engines painted duplicolor corporate blue as well as the intake i took the edelbrock off of and it looks great without it.i hate advertising ,
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4451.jpg
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since i cant leave anything alone, i decided to just pull everything apart on this car also and ill pull the subframe and wire wheel it and repaint everyting including the suspension, and sand blast the small pieces.i got started but unfortnatly it started raining like every day i have off.
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Man That Is One Nice Paint Job On That Motor, Iam Not A Big Fan Of Corp. Blue But Very Nice Job !!

Man That Is One Nice Paint Job On That Motor, Iam Not A Big Fan Of Corp. Blue But Very Nice Job !!
thanks, the blue is not the greatest color but i hate chevy orange, everyone knows it doesnt belong in the car and most orange out of the cans looks noen not the redish orange the factory made it. a black engine looks good but not unless you have lots of chrome or billet and i have neither so it went corporate.

it stopped raining for a while so i unbolted some more stuff.
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did some work before it rained today por-15'ed the old sagnaw so it looks pretty for when it blows apart. did the controlle arms also.
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Got some work done tonite after work,i went corporate. The engines painted duplicolor corporate blue as well as the intake i took the edelbrock off of and it looks great without it.i hate advertising ,

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4470.jpg



is that high temp paint? mind me asking where u got it from? looks great!! woww, keep it up man, this is gonna be a wicked car!

Agreed, motor does look awesome. Personally I would not have though of painting the aluminum intake, but seeing it, I think it adds a certain sleeper quality to the car. Great job!

is that high temp paint? mind me asking where u got it from? looks great!! woww, keep it up man, this is gonna be a wicked car!
the paint is duplicolor engine primer and engine paint, napa carries it as well as most chain autoparts stores.

Agreed, motor does look awesome. Personally I would not have though of painting the aluminum intake, but seeing it, I think it adds a certain sleeper quality to the car. Great job!
i usually paint the intakes on my cars because the aluminum always gets stained or corrodes so painting it makes it look better for longer, if it gets really bad just mask it off and repaint it to new.

after work i got the shifter rods, bellhousing,steering box and z-bar painted.
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got the subframe pulled and power washed it, i didnt feel like wire wheeling it so i just por-15ed it .i also got the firewall cleaned up and repainted and the subframe got bolted back on after work today. found a rotted subframe hole and it was late and the bolt store wasnt open so i found out if you take a chevy piolet bearing apart its the rite size to fit the hole and the bushing fits inside the cup nicely.
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Last Pic Is Ausome Dude.

some more work done today, sand blasted and painted a few parts, made my own replacement brakelines out of a 72 inch and 30 inch brake line from the auto parts store no reflaring they were just the perfect size.brakes are back on and the engine will be soon to come after i adjust the lifters and get a new ballancer.yes its a non ac cover on an ac car all that has to be done is a notch in the cover and flattening out of the hole in the firewall.
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i wish i had the energy to do my car up like this. very good work....

well the engines in the cams broken in and i just gotta paint the hood hinges ,1 inner fender and the hood latch and it will be on the road again,all the little things took time and kept progress slow, such as me wanting to run factory temp gauge and trace some wires in the compartment that went to nothing, i said to myself these colors look odd and they were, someone cut the whole harness 12 inches from the bulkhead on the engine side, the harness wasnt even from a camaro they had most wires correct to get it to run, but spliced green to tan, blue to pink and such i had 3 wires sticking out that went to nothing just stuck in the plastic tubing.after getting out the old schematic and re solidering everything its now all good.forgot i also have to put on a new master and bleed the brakes too.
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That is a lot of blue!

That is a lot of blue!
yea but it looks good when i put the rest of the stuff in the engine compartment,i would change the valvecovers but they were the only ones that fit.

drove the car today and the kick in the pants was a good one, now all it needs is a better trans and some real gears the 308's just suck, i have some 373's and they will go in shortly. i feel the engine compartment just looks detailed and stock not gaudy or overdone. i have to still put in the wiper moter and get a new ds hinge. theres so much slop i pun on my fiberglass hood and the hood sits 4 inches over the fender at full adjustment and it fit my other car fine.
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started doing some metal work on this car because the minitub project on the other one got boring. started messing with the passenger side dogleg i have it all cut out and trimmed i just gotta weld it in tommorow.
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Why do you have a valve on the heater hose?

Why do you have a valve on the heater hose?
if you put a valve on the heater hose the heater core doesnt get hot coolant circulated through it and the hot air in the cabin doesnt come through the vents, the heater core is in the cabin in the box and theres always air pumping through it even with the fan in the off position it stays on low to circulate air, the way gm made it.

Looking Good!:bowtie:

the passenger side is basically done i just have to put a little bit of filler on the seams, i put some primer on so it wont surface rust.i started on the drivers side that was alot worse it had more rust and there was also accident dammage.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4707.jpg
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finally did the drivers side its almost done i gotta grind down the spotwelds in the wheel well and do some putty but its almost there.
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started on the rear lower patch the pannel was already bent up a little from previous accident dammage.the passenger side only has a small hole but im gonna replace the whole bottom section about 3 inches from the bottom to gaurentee no rot, but the ps is backorderd so its not getting done yet
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4783.jpg
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Looks good as always. What are the fasteners you are using for your butt welds? At first glance I thought they were magnets but then I saw the wing nuts. My dad has a TON of metal work to do and it looks like those would help.

Looks good as always. What are the fasteners you are using for your butt welds? At first glance I thought they were magnets but then I saw the wing nuts. My dad has a TON of metal work to do and it looks like those would help.
There buttweld clamps to keep the pannel straight while you tac weld inbetween them then you twist the wing nut and pull the piece behind it out and pull out the front piece. i got them at harbor freight they were like 6 bucks for 6 or something like that.

Did something although its raining, yesterday i took the headliner out to redo, the orignal was way past due. Redoing the headliner cost me 35 dollars including spray glue and 1.5 yards fabric. Just take the old one down pull of the old fabric then hit it with a stiff bristle brush blow off the dust and glue on the new one.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4802.jpg
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Good work man! And I love that engine bay

Good work man! And I love that engine bay
i like to keep it simple and clean.

Today i did the passengerside rear lower quarter patch it took about 5 hours from start to finish, i must say goodmark sheetmetal for the lower quarter on 74-81 is less than par the whole rear edge is wrong,and this pannel i got was rounded in the back corner like a 70-73 i had to bend it up with pliars to get it rite.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4844.jpg
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Nice work, Kevin...

Now that's a collection of found stuff.

:P

Are those yellow tubes shotgun shells?


SteveO

wow thats some amazing welding/metal work!!! i should have got you to do my patch panels:cool: where did you get those exh tips?

Looking Good!:bowtie:

wow thats some amazing welding/metal work!!! i should have got you to do my patch panels:cool: where did you get those exh tips?
Those tips come with the flowmaster american thunder exhaust,it was on the car when i bought it but the flowmasters are coming off soon because i hate the sound and the drone inside makes me angry. the metal work im good with but i gotta learn the art of filler sanding and painting with a gun.

tommorow i should be driving the car to my buddies house and we should be starting on the bodywork and hopefully get the whole car in primer before it starts snowing.

Those tips come with the flowmaster american thunder exhaust,it was on the car when i bought it but the flowmasters are coming off soon because i hate the sound and the drone inside makes me angry. the metal work im good with but i gotta learn the art of filler sanding and painting with a gun.

cool, iv gotta look into getting some..

Im gonna get some pics tonite, the cars going down to bare metal and i have about 8 hours into it so far just wire wheeling with the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a knotted wheel.All i have left is the passenger side door, quarterpanel,fender and trunk lid. All the small parts, fender vents,side view mirrors and bumper straps will be glass beaded in the blast cabinet due to there complex shape and delicateness. The hood is off my blue car and is Fiberglass and it is already straight so it just has to be da'ed and primered and the urathane nose is new so just a scuff and shoot, i dont have to actually sand it for hours .

Got some pics, the only bad spot i found so far is the passenger side door its got filler and lots of it, the ds had none and aparantly a new skin sometime in the other cars life i got the matched set of doors from, after i get all the filler off im gonna see if it warents a new skin.
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A buddy of mine told me that the knotted wire wheel on a grinder would scratch up the metal too much and make more work for me, and that'd it'd be better for me to actually sand the whole car by hand.. what do you think? How's the metal turning out? I'd rather do it your way, because every single bit of paint needs to come off of my car.

A buddy of mine told me that the knotted wire wheel on a grinder would scratch up the metal too much and make more work for me, and that'd it'd be better for me to actually sand the whole car by hand.. what do you think? How's the metal turning out? I'd rather do it your way, because every single bit of paint needs to come off of my car.
The metal is smoothe and not ripped up so its gonna be alright, im gonna skim coat the whole car and block it out so theres nothing to wory about. It takes a long time no matter which way but the wire wheel is cheaper, i bought the wheel at harbor freight for 5 bucks ant it outlasts the one from ace and home depot , the harbor freight one i can do the whole car with one wheel, iv got about 10 hours in it so far, the sand paper just gets gunked up and sandpaper isnt cheap.

This project is looking great. Keep up the nice work. Nice body work skills. Russ

This project is looking great. Keep up the nice work. Nice body work skills. Russ
Thanks Russ, i have no training in metal work im just a learn as you go kinda guy. lots of trial and error.

Well the metal was bad on the ps door so its getting a new skin, lucky for this car i have a skin already because i was going to use it on my other car. I have to make a corner for the edge of the door frame because it was rotted out but i cant bring my welder over because mine runs on 240 and he doesnt have an outlet in his garage. He does own a 120v lincoln but its on loan to my other friend so i hope he brings it back tommorow when i call him for it, otherwise i have to drive the door frame to my own house weld it up and bring it back. I have the old skin already off and the new one can go on when i weld in the new corner.
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http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4905.jpg

Good Progress! keep up the good work!:bowtie:

Well the whole cars apart and its gonna get the royal treatment, im gonna be into it for about 600-700 shop cost spies hecker paint, primer, and poly spray filler over 300 in savings in paint going through my buddy at his work.One friend is the main painter at a collision repair shop and my other friend is a laid off painter metal worker that was working at a resto shop now doing regular autobody collision repair and were going all out to get the car laser straight show car black painted.( he said he doesnt want his name thrown around on a crap job so were doing it rite.) hopefully we can rent the booth at this shop to do final color. some pics to come.

whole cars down to metal, we took the filler off we previously put on to go to metal. the shell is gonna get primed tommorow and then my buddy is gonna do some metal work on it with the hammer ,dolly and sand bag. the whole car has been gone over with navel jelley and scotchbrite to its clean with no traces of rust anywhere.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4924.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4920.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4923.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4922.jpg

All taped up and ready for some primer, tomorow body work and maybe priming the trunk and doors.Casey painting me taking the pics.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4926.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4930.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4934.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4935.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4937.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4938.jpg

got the door skin done yesterday laid a thin strip of seam sealer on the door frame, laid the new skin on top and clamped it down gently then went around with the hammer and dolly. After that i flipped it over and put some tac welds on the edge to assure the skin doesnt move,seam sealed the edges and done.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4939.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4940.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4941.jpg

one door,2 fenders and the trunklid are primed.tommorow we start filler and block sanding.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4947.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4949.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_4951.jpg

Sweet deal, man.

cars come a little further we hung the ps door that took 4 hours with 3 people to get it almost rite, the passenger quarter is almost done abut my buddy is going to weld on the door edge to get the body line perfect. ths passenger side fender is also is done enough to hang on the car then get perfect with the door. the green filler on the whole quarter is dolphin glaze, to get it lazer straight , after the whole cars done it will get with sprayable filler and blocked again for perfection.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_5152.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_5155.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_5151.jpg

drivers quaeter and roof are getting done now, more pics tomorrow.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_5148.jpg

still working on this , the roof has been filled and the quarter is almost done, were working on getting perfect gaps, we so far grinded and used a file to get the trunk lid to get it to fit, we have to cut the filler panel between the trunk and window and weld it up back together to get the perfect gap. next were gonna work on the door edge to quarter and get that to fit perfect.http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_5465.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_5469.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/3SL05/new%2080%20z/IMG_5467.jpg

Looks good, Kevin. I'm thinking this may be the next project on mine.