View Special Sale Items!
Jump to: { About NGCC | Ordering, Pricing & Payment | Warranty | Tech Support | References }

Search Catalog site:
(Tip: Enter search string in above text area)

Online Restoration Parts Catalog Menu

Interior Parts Exterior Parts Engine Accessories Transmission & Drivetrain

Suspension & Chassis Wheels Wiring Harnesses Accessories & Options

Terms, Conditions & General Information
[ About NGCC | Pricing & Payment | Warranty | Tech Support | References ]
[ Parts cars | 3rd Gen Parts | Product Sources | Restoration Services | "On Tour" ]
[ Sale Procedure | Shipping/Delivery | Privacy Statement ]

Online Camaro Parts & Tech Catalog Table of Contents ** Interior ** Console Kits Carpet Kits Dashboard Kits Instrumentation Door Panel Kits Seats Headliners Package Trays Trunk Parts Steering Column Parts Pedal Parts ** Wheels & Tires ** Center Caps ** Engine Accessories ** Induction & Fuel System Exhaust Components Brackets & Pullys Misc. Engine Components ** Transmissions/Drivetrain ** Shifters ** Wiring Kits ** ** Body & Sheet Metal ** Chrome Trim Kits Weatherstrip Kits Doors & Hardware Front End & Hardware Emblems, Decals & Stripes Lights Bumpers Rally Sport Parts Spoilers Sheet Metal Grilles Mirrors Glass ** Suspension & Chassis ** Subframe Brake Systems Steering Systems Rear Axle/Suspension ** Accessorys & Optional Equipment ** Heating & Air Conditioning Wipers & Washers ** Literature ** ** = Major Catagory

• I added a search feature to the parts page.
• I added a "special sale items" section
• I'm rewriting and consolidating some sections

I'm consolidating some of the parts sections so finding stuff is easier. Specifically, the engine & suspension sections were consolidated. No more near empty page with little info... it's all under the related section. I've also snapped about 100 new photos of stuff and am sprinkling the pictures all over the place.

I'm trying to get a better inventory of what I have available in used condition.

Not many people used the online order tracking feature, so I quit using it (for now).

Click here: for previous news & site updates

This catalog is NOT everything I can order. It is a good example of what I have.
If you don't see something you need, ask me if I can help. While I focus on second generation Camaros, I also assist people with 67-69 Camaros, 82-92 Camaros, Chevelles & Novas.

Rather than throw my ass out into the street with all my hardware, she let me stay and keep all my toys. Except I was suddenly "unfunded". Being creative, I partnered up with 2 of my close friends and began selling a lot of my spare "stuff" I had collected over the years. This deal rapidly snowballed and allowed me to collect even MORE STUFF. I had good contacts in industries I needed to be involved in. Restoration and racing companies. In addition to this, the amount of money that was going in/out allowed me to leverage my buying power to get dealer pricing on parts from various sources.

Originally, it was set up to help us restore and race our cars, but it quickly evolved from a small helping ourselves and a couple other guys, to a serious, professional business. However, THIS IS NOT MY FULL TIME JOB. I'd starve to death if I was in this for the money.

The original intention and purpose of this page was to assist me in restoring some of my cars. I needed Camaro information, pictures of parts & pieces, exploded diagrams and technical information which wasn't readily available, so I created this place. Hopefully everything is rolled into this section in such a way that it'll make restoring your car an easier task.

North Georgia Classic Camaro is comprised of TWO people. Mike Maciolek & Andrew Mattei (retired)

THE ABOVE 2 PEOPLE ARE THE ONLY PEOPLE WHO WILL EVER CONTACT ANYONE UNDER THE NORTH GEORGIA CLASSIC CAMARO BANNER.

It has come to my attention that some people are trying to pretend they are affiliated with us. We are based in Dawson County Georgia. Not New York.

For all legal purposes, NGCC shall be considered "non-profit" and non-commercial. Any form of compensation shall be conducted via our absolute power to contract protected under the laws of the United States of America and the state of Georgia.

The first public use of "North Georgia Classic Camaro" was August 20, 1997.

Why should you deal with US?
Why should you deal with us? Simple, because we have a lot of experience (I have 18 years myself). We know what we're doing. We do this work on our own cars. We've spent the time and effort running down these products to save you time and money in restoring or repairing your car. We offer low prices on the same parts other vendors do.
Service... timely email, including TechSupport (even on stuff I didn't sell).
Stand behind what I sell - If you don't like it, I'll take it back (subject to conditions mentioned elsewhere).
Because we're honest and hard working folks. :^)

Ordering Processes Summarized:

• "The Old Way".
• Generic Electronic Order Form. (See Below)
• Check on an existing order (since 3/11/2000).

About Prices:
I keep overhead low and operations lean. Because of this, I can pretty much clobber anyone else in the parts pricing department due to my price structure. Since I am the order taker - you get the right part, the first time.

The only "problem" with my pricing is I can't play games on NEW PART prices, nor do I offer volume discounts - as you're already getting the parts priced this way. I don't sell some stuff at a loss and make up the difference on other parts, or screw you on shipping. If you buy from me, you're buying at close to dealer cost.

Very few of my USED part prices are "firm", most used parts are negotiable in price. I generally sell USED parts for 50% less than what new costs. I generally don't "refurbish" used parts, I may not even clean them up.... they come off the car and get sent to the purchaser.

While I don't give away parts (usually) - I don't hold people by the balls either. I know a 150 mph speedometer costs $250. I know you can't buy the upper sail panels for a 1970-74, or 1971 Deluxe interior door panels easily. If I have these for sale, I'm pretty fair with pricing.

Finally - I do not like to put a price on other peoples stuff. Some people have asked me "what something is worth". I can tell you what my stuff is worth, or what I can sell you something for. I can't tell you what joeblows bumper is worth - or why his parts cost $400 and mine are $100. Overhead has a lot to do with pricing, which is why I keep my overhead low.

A quick explaination of price structures:
When you walk into a store and buy something, you pay retail. If you buy a bunch of stuff all at once, you can get "jobber" pricing. (which is why you can often get 10% off sales over $xxxx, or people put together "group sales" on items to get a discount). People who make a habit of buying a lot of stuff at once can get jobber pricing. The problem with this is if it's not leveraged, your next purchase goes back to retail, or your discount isn't on everything, but just one item. If you MOVE A LOT OF STUFF, CONSTANTLY, you get tossed into the next level - dealer. To be a dealer you often have to "buy in" to a supplier ordering "$xxxx" stuff (between $3 - 5000) up front, and move "$x" amount of goodies/month to retain your dealer status.

Payment:
COD orders are unaccepted. The last time I COD'ed something it was sent to a bogus address and was returned as undeliverable. This cost me $20.00 (shipping & COD fee - which UPS keeps). At least I got my stuff back intact.

I'll take a money order, cash, check, and now I can take Visa and Mastercard too. See below.

NOW ACCEPTING CREDIT CARDS!

I also work on IOU's in some situations. I owe, and I am owed. It's nice to be able to call in a favor when the chips are down. (I've GIVEN parts to certain people). I believe what comes around goes around.

I get anywhere from 10 to 20 emails a day asking for advice. And I try and answer it all. Feel free to email me. Some questions (1st Gen) I'll pass to my 1st gen friends. I'm small enough to still be able to personally handle all my mail. In other words, I don't "blow people off". If I don't answer your mail, I'm usually overwealmed at the moment - bear with me.

If you feel you've been "ignored", please check in here if you haven't already. This is my FAQ (Frequently asked questions). After people ask me something 15 times it probably deserves to be addressed in the faq. Especially "HOW CAN I GO FASTER" or "How many RED 1973 RS/Z28's were made with tilt?" type emails. That's in my FAQ.

To make my life easier, try and include a descriptive subject on your email. I try and force a subject header into any email hyperlinks I use to give me an idea of where the question came from, feel free to change it. Just remember, if I have 25 "HELP ME!!" emails, those filter down to the bottom of the inbox. "Help me install my rug", or "How do I align my doors" subject headers makes it easier for me to reply to you.

ALSO, I MAY HAVE REPLIED TO YOU.... this was a tech question. I sent this once. I can't keep up with bounced messages due to full mailboxes or spam-block filters. Also, I have 5 different email accounts, but I may reply from only 2 of them, depending on where I am at a particular moment. If you accept a reply only from an account you mail to, you may block me from replying from a different account.

----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
  

     ----- Transcript of session follows -----
  ... while talking to air-ya05.mail.aol.com.:
  >>> RCPT To:
  <<< 550 XXXXXX IS NOT ACCEPTING MAIL FROM THIS SENDER

Face-to-Face sales
In some cases, when a buyer is local, or can be local, I can sell parts face-to-face. About all I want to say about this is "please call ahead, prior to coming over". I will not be responsible for your personal safety if you arrive unannounced or are unescorted on my property.

On new parts: I was going to put in where some parts specifically come from, the supplier, and offer links to their pages, but most of those places either allow you to buy a catalog or have little information. Both of these suppliers only sell to distributors. Examples of suppliers are: Re-Pops & OER Parts

One of the things I'm trying to do is make your restoration an informative deal, and be your "one stop shop". I've done the legwork for you. I deal with the suppliers who sell only the finest quality parts available.

"Kits"
Often when you order parts, you get EXACTLY what you order. Nothing more, nothing less. For example; a console, is a brand new BARE console. I'm trying to save you time by offering some products as KITS or assemblies, which in this example, gets you the console, console lid, console box, & shift plate.

I'm trying to put together kits, but based on experience, people want to buy individual parts. Where feasable or realistic, I'll try and put together a kit or bundle parts under one part number. Another word for "kit" is "assembly". For example, a headlight assembly is a complete unit ready to be bolted into your car. Right now I'm going to focus on parts - and when I get a handle on that I'll offer complete kits on something.

Item Condition
I sell a combination of NEW & USED parts. I will identify the parts as used or new. The condition of used parts varies but I would generally consider everything to be in "good" condition. I would personally use anything I would sell. If something is in less than good condition, I'll indicate so before I sell it. Any parts I order NEW will be New GM or NOS caliber parts.

Quality Parts
I don't have the time, nor can I can't afford to sell crap (inferior, incorrect or broken products). The suppliers I use are generally the better suppliers in the industry. As such, the chances of my parts needing to be returned are slim. However, I do have a return policy.

After a while I get to know what type of parts are junk, trust me, some reproduction stuff is "not good". You may ask for something that I could order, but I won't order it for you - because I don't want that part coming back. An example of this is the elcheapo fiberglass air damn for the 1978 - 1981 Camaro. I won't order this.

If you need to return something that was ordered NEW, the vendors I deal with have very fair (no questions asked) return policies. If I have made a mistake in ordering the part, I will eat my expenses. A quick overview of the return policy is you tell me you want something returned. I'll get an RMA #. A call tag will be issued to pick up the part, or you will be reimbursed to return the busted part and a new one will be shipped to you.

Delivery ETA
I ship used parts as quickly as possible. Some parts in the reproduction chain are still being made, therefore the time between ordering them and (me) recieving them can vary. I try and ship parts within 2 weeks of a sale. If it's going to take longer, I'll advise you up front.

Most items I have can be shipped via UPS. By default, UPS puts $100 insurance on every box, so if something is damaged in transit, we're covered. If I'm shipping something expensive, I'll insure it appropriately. I can (realistically) ship upwards of 100 pounds, or some "creatively packaged" (fenders, frame rails) items via UPS rather inexpensively. Unfortunantly, some items like engines, rear ends and interiors require special shipping and/or handling.

Special shipping & handling
This happens one of 2 ways:
I may be able to deliver the part, if it's convenient with my schedule and we can make it worth my effort. I can realistically deliver something within a 10 hour travel radius of North Georgia. (on a weekend).

If you want to buy something that must go truck freight, i.e. an automatic transmission to Utah, or a Rear Axle to Seattle Washington:
I use a combination of freight companies: Seko, Forward Air & BAX Global.
The freight shipper I've had sucess with is "Seko", located in Forest Park Georgia. 1-800-486-7979.
The selection of what shipper is used is based on the destination of the part.

COD orders are unaccepted. Not only do I pay to ship an item, but I also pay a $5.00 COD fee. If you decide to "change your mind", I get my parts back and UPS keeps my money.

I don't have any "special handling". I work as fast as I can to get your stuff.
I won't take extra money to rush a job. If I forsee a time problem with delivering something, or come across a problem removing something, or shipping something, I'll email you. And we can go from there.

Occasionally I screw up. I try and UPS everything. Sometimes I make sale agreements with someone and then find out they live in Seattle Washington or San Diego California. And I quoted $15 to ship something. I usually procede with the sale if shipping is actually $20 or whatever. If the shipping cost is severely underestimated, I will go back to the buyer and ask if it's acceptable to split the overage, because by this time, I know what the actual shipping cost will be. If the actual shipping cost is unacceptable to either party, the sale will be cancelled and any money paid will be refunded in full. This is usually only an issue when UPS refuses to ship an item (for being too large), or I'm trying to ship 110 pounds of steel (a set of wheels say) to montana and I quoted $40 shipping and actual cost is $75.

Foreign Orders
...are expensive. Please try and use a US forwarding agent, otherwise I will have to charge accordingly

Credit card transactions handled by PayPal. NGCC does not need your credit card # to be able to accept these transactions.

Last updated: 6/19/2000
Author: MadMike Maciolek
Email: madmike@nastyz28.com

Return to Table of Contents