While we hate to think about it, before too long many of us in the northern climate will need to think about winter storage. We offer the following as some long-term storage ideas that have worked.

• Clean the car inside and out and put on a good coat of wax.
• Change oil and filter (Some prefer to change oil first thing in Spring, instead.)
• Check and top off all fluids, including brake fluid.
• Check antifreeze quality, protection level, and pH level of antifreeze. Antifreeze should be slightly alkaline at 7.5 to 8 pH. Add a can of water pump lubricant before shutting down engine for the last time.
• Fill the fuel tank to the very top and add a gas stabilizer. Filling as full as possible will help prevent rusting of the top of the tank from moisture in the fuel.
• Inflate tires 10 lbs. to 15 lbs. over normal. (Tires will often lose 1 or more pounds of pressure per month.) If you are concerned about "flat- spotting" of tires, consider switching to old tires and wheels.
• If you decide to put the vehicle on stands, the stands should be under the suspension to support the vehicle. If the stands are put under the frame rather than the suspension, it leaves the vehicle suspension in an extended, unnatural position, which could cause problems over the term of the storage, such as rusted shocks and suspension components not normally exposed to the air.
• Put moisture-absorbing packets in the car.
• Rodent repellent is also a possibility. I leave my sunvisors down so rodents have more problem getting into the headliner. The smell of mothballs will repel some pests, but stays with the car for a long time (not recommended). This last winter I went with bars of Irish Spring soap as a deterrent. I put bars into open coffee cans in the trunk and front and back floors. No mice problems, but we store our cars with about 150 others in the same building. That increases my odds of the mice going somewhere else
• Steelwool in tailpipes and the air-cleaner opening keeps critters from climbing in and nesting or using the areas for food storage.
• Remove the battery and keep it charged, preferably in a warm place. A discharged battery can freeze. I keep mine on a piece of plywood rather than directly on a concrete floor.
• Since concrete or dirt floors release moisture, store the car on another flooring or make a vapor barrier with plastic under car, although wood under the car is better. Try not to store vehicle where other winter vehicles come in and out, bringing moisture with them.
• Leave windows opened about 1/2 inch to allow air to circulate.
• Leave Armor-All (or similar) products off the interior until Spring. They contain water and chemicals that can support the growth of mildew and mold.
• To avoid the risk of the clutch and flywheel rusting together, I wedge a board on the clutch pedal to partially depress it, leaving it released from the flywheel.
• Leave the parking brake off so the brake shoes do not stick to the drums during storage.
• Remove the windshield wiper blades or block them off of the glass, so they do not rest against the windshield all winter.
• Pull the sparkplugs and put in a bit of oil. Some people also pour a thin oil in the carburetor of a running engine until the engine stalls, to provide a "fogging" lubrication.
• Don't start the car in winter unless you plan to drive it for at least a half-hour to allow all systems to get up to proper operating temperature and in use.
• Cover the car to protect against dust and possible scratches.
• Tape a note to the steering wheel to remind you what needs to be done in Spring to get the car ready for the next season.