Second Generation Camaro Owners Group - Exterior Chrome Trim, Molding & Weatherstrip

Chrome Trim FAQ
Various chrome trim was installed on the Camaro over the years. Some of the chrome is standard equipment and some of the chrome would have been installed as an option or as part of an upgraded model (Type LT, Berlinetta).

I've included some basic information here which covers 95% of the chrome in use. Based on this information, you should be able to figure out how to deal with the chrome on your car. Notice there's no 1978 - 1981 depictions... because for the most part, the chrome trim is the same.

To properly use this page, look at the chrome in question. There's a number along with a letter after it. The letter after the number indicates the fastening method. Click the below letter fastening method to view that fastener in detail.

Typical location of Chrome Trim

1971 side view - click to view full size 1975 side view - click to view full size 1975 rear view - click to view full size

Descriptions:
#2 & 4: Windshield Reveal Molding
#11: Roof drip (snap on)
#22: Roof drip (screw on)
#83 & 79: Belt molding (also on edge of fender, and wraps around rear edge of hood)
#36, 37 & 38: Rear Window Reveal molding
#23, 26 & 135: Vinyl Top Molding
#80: Body Side Molding
#86: Door edge guard
#81: Lower belt molding
16: Rocker Molding (used in 1971 to 1975)

Fastener Method Detail: View A | View C | View E | View G | View J | View P | View S | View W

(also need the rocker molding clip thing)

Misc Notes: Late model (1977+) Z28's came with black anodized trim.
Notice some versions of roof drip molding (item 11) snap onto the roof of the car while another version (item 22) screws into the roof and is pinched by the weatherstrip retainer. Item 11 is cheap chomed plastic. Item 22 is stainless steel.
Weld studs are field located and shot into the car with a hand held welder. A bodyshop can usually perform this task.
A bayonet stud is also called a barrel nut.
While these fasteners and hardware look specialized, and they are - they are readily available from most autobody supply shops, a NAPA store can look them up, or you can find them directly from Au-Ve-Co.

catching clip to release reveal molding "Method E" in action: Using a special tool, and working around the windshield, slide the tool under the molding and gently catch each clip from behind, which will release the molding.

Removing/installing Door Reveal Molding.
The door which has reveal molding installed on it will have studs on the upper edge of the door. These studs will allow a fastener to slide over it, much like a vinal cover molding. The reveal molding snaps onto those fasteners.

To remove the reveal molding, CAREFULLY slide a very thin screw driver under the bottom edge of the molding. When you feel resistance, you're close to a stud/fastener. Carefully pry up and the molding will pop off. Move down the length of the molding, popping each fastener free from the molding.

Doors without reveal molding will not have these studs. I suppose the trick to adding them is to fit the fasteners onto the car with a sheet metal screw.

Related components
Door handles
exterior emblems
vinal top stuff

Weatherstriping

Weatherstrip is used to seal and insulate the car from the elements. It'll prevent water leaks, wind noise and heat from entering the cabin of the car. Weatherstrip is identical from 1970 to 1981. GM weatherstrip is still available, and while it's expensive, it's a good buy - it'll fit. Reproduction weatherstrip comes in various price levels and qualitys. Some fit alright, some don't. Some are so stiff it'll take a week or 3 to compress and seal properly.

Hood to cowl seal.
Door Frame Weatherstrip
Runs the perimeter of the door shell. Screws in at the top and is retained around the door with plastic press in pegs.

Roof Rail Weatherstrip
Runs up the "A" pillar, along the top edge of the door glass and down the back edge of the door glass. Screws or is pinched to the door opening with screws or plastic pegs. It's held into the roof rail via a friction fit in the retainer. This retainer (parts 14 & 15 below) is made of unobtainium, so don't break it. It's not only screwed to the roof, but held in with double-sided sticky tape. It's usually easier to leave the thing in the roof and mask off whatever you're trying to remove (roof drip molding typically).

T-Top Weatherstrip (if equipped)
Also see: CC1 option.

Outer Side Glass Sealing Weatherstrip
There were 2 different styles of weatherstrip used and they depend upon wether your car has belt molding (item 83 or 79 above). If your car HAS belt molding - the weatherstrip was simply a rubber squeegie weatherstrip screwed to the door. If your car DOESN'T have belt molding, you get a rubber squeegie weatherstrip with a small chrome accent built into it. If you try and use the weatherstrip with the chrome bead on a car WITH belt molding, it will not fit. You CAN use the rubber squeegie one on either door (with or without belt molding).

Inner Side Glass Sealing Weatherstrip
This is stapled (or rivited) to the top edge of your door panel.

Trunk Weatherstrip
Comes in a long strip and is glued into trunk channel. You splice and glue it together at the bottom center of the trunk. 1 size fits all, custom fit.

Rubber Bumpers, etc... found on the door, trunk lid, hood, fenders, glove box.


Last updated: 10/20/2011
Author: MadMike Maciolek


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Exploded diagrams courtesy of Fisher Body Service Manual